diff --git a/nature/main.tex b/nature/main.tex index 68d7f55..83d1588 100644 --- a/nature/main.tex +++ b/nature/main.tex @@ -107,23 +107,23 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa \begin{figure*} \centering \includegraphics{fig/maxw.pdf} - \caption{Free surface obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater; + \caption{Free surface elevation obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater; \textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash} \end{figure*} -\subsection{Wave propagation} +\subsection{Wave transformation} -The results from the large scale SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as a boundary conditions will be used in order -to feed the small scale Olaflow model. Wave transformation is studied from the buoy to the breakwater. Those results -show that the amplitude of the identified wave gets lower as the wave propagates over the domain. Nevertheless, a long -trough precedes the crest, with a zone reaching 400m long where the water level is below 1m is present in front of the -wave crest. +The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is +plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and +the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over +the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and +the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m. \begin{figure*} \centering \includegraphics{fig/x.pdf} - \caption{Wave propagation from the buoy to the breakwater. \textit{The qualitative position of the wave is - highlighted.}}\label{fig:trans} + \caption{Propagation of the wave supposed to be responsible for the block displacement; highlighted zone: + qualitatively estimated position of the wave.}\label{fig:swash_trans} \end{figure*} \subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}