diff --git a/biblio/bibliography_research.tex b/biblio/bibliography_research.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a92576 --- /dev/null +++ b/biblio/bibliography_research.tex @@ -0,0 +1,58 @@ +\chapter{Bibliography research} +\section{Extracting components from buoy data} +\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation} +\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from +spectrum measurements at three different points. +\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation, +roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation} + +\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge} +\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method} +Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}: +\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant} +Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming} + +\cite{pedersen2007resolving} +\paragraph{puv method} +\cite{sobey1999locally} +\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection} +\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ} + +\section{Reflection} +\paragraph{wave reflection analysis} +\cite{davidson1996new} + +\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media} +\paragraph{olaFlow} +\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three} + +\section{Breakwater modeling} +\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical}; + +\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d, +sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical, +losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical} + +\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002} + +\section{Modeling} +\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015, +mentaschi2013,rusu2011} + +\section{Block displacement} +\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block, +weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high} +\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment, +nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role, +oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance} +\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical} +Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward}, +\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads} +\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical, +barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016} + +\section{Other} +\cite{miche1951} + +\section{Flow in porous media} +\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304} diff --git a/biblio/introduction.tex b/biblio/introduction.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f01062e --- /dev/null +++ b/biblio/introduction.tex @@ -0,0 +1,21 @@ +\chapter{Introduction} +In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto +the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a +photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the +conditions under which this event happened using field data along with +numerical modeling. + +The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing +the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale +of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow +\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting. + +This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to +obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known +thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}. +However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model, +it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw +buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater, +especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this +simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by +waves for validation. diff --git a/biblio/library.bib b/biblio/library.bib index eda123d..344aff4 100644 --- a/biblio/library.bib +++ b/biblio/library.bib @@ -624,3 +624,73 @@ issue = {1}, doi = {10.51400/2709-6998.2138}, } + +@inbook{gaillard1980, + author = {Pierre Gaillard and Michel Gauthier and Forrest Holly }, + title = {Method of Analysis of Random Wave Experiments with Reflecting Coastal Structures}, + year = {1980}, + booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1980}, + pages = {204-220}, + doi = {10.1061/9780872622647.011}, + URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872622647.011}, + eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872622647.011}, +} + +@inbook{guza1984, + author = {R. T. Guza and E. B. Thornton and R. A. Holman }, + title = {Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches}, + booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1984}, + chapter = {}, + year = {1984}, + pages = {708-723}, + doi = {10.1061/9780872624382.049}, + URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872624382.049}, + eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872624382.049}, +} + +@inbook{kubota1990, + author = {Susumu Kubota and Masaru Mizuguchi and Mitsuo Takezawa }, + title = {Reflection from Swash Zone on Natural Beaches}, + booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1990}, + year = {1990}, + chapter = {}, + pages = {570-583}, + doi = {10.1061/9780872627765.046}, + URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872627765.046}, + eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872627765.046}, +} + +@article{walton1992, + title = {Wave reflection from natural beaches}, + journal = {Ocean Engineering}, + volume = {19}, + number = {3}, + pages = {239-258}, + year = {1992}, + issn = {0029-8018}, + doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2}, + url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272}, + author = {T.L. Walton}, +} + +@article{hughes1993, + title = {Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages}, + journal = {Coastal Engineering}, + volume = {20}, + number = {3}, + pages = {223-247}, + year = {1993}, + issn = {0378-3839}, + doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q}, + url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q}, + author = {Steven A. Hughes}, +} + +@report{miche1951, + title = {Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action + de la houle}, + author = {Miche, M.}, + year = {1951}, + publisher = {École nationale des ponts et chaussées}, + booktitle = {Hydraulic Engineering Reports}, +} diff --git a/biblio/literature.tex b/biblio/literature.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c533161 --- /dev/null +++ b/biblio/literature.tex @@ -0,0 +1,72 @@ +\chapter{Literature Review} +In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed. + +\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data} + +The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically +modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave +model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the +boundary will not be correctly generated. + +Several methods exist to extract reflected components in measured seastates, +and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods +and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of +multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and +reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity +measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal. + +\subsection{Array methods} +\begin{itemize} + \item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate +incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3 +positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation. +\parencite{gaillard1980} + + \item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards +and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with +small filters. SIRW Method, realtime. + + \item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time}, +arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection +coefficients, larger for low reflection. + + \item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on +a known current. + + \item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced +bias in array methods. + + \item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components +for non-linear waves. + + \item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves. +\end{itemize} + +\subsection{PUV methods} + +\begin{itemize} + \item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined +with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for +reflectivities over 0.3. + + \item ?? \cite{guza1984}: + + \item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field + measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and + outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise. + + \item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories: + quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results. + + \item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher + reflected energy than incident energy. + + \item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or + horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of + irregular non breaking waves. + + \item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid + noise-induced bias. + + \item \cite{sheremet2002observations}: +\end{itemize} diff --git a/biblio/main.tex b/biblio/main.tex index 244aa7c..c00772d 100644 --- a/biblio/main.tex +++ b/biblio/main.tex @@ -1,4 +1,4 @@ -\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{report} +\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book} \usepackage{cours} \setmainlanguage{english} @@ -27,91 +27,17 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017} \date{February 2022} \begin{document} +\frontmatter \maketitle -\chapter*{Bibliography research} -\section{Extracting components from buoy data} -\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation} -\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from -spectrum measurements at three different points. -\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation, -roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation} +\tableofcontents -\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge} -\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method} -Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}: -\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant} -Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming} - -\cite{pedersen2007resolving} -\paragraph{puv method} -\cite{sobey1999locally} -\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection} -\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ} - -\section{Reflection} -\paragraph{wave reflection analysis} -\cite{davidson1996new} - -\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media} -\paragraph{olaFlow} -\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three} - -\section{Breakwater modeling} -\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical}; - -\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d, -sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical, -losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical} - -\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002} - -\section{Modeling} -\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015, -mentaschi2013,rusu2011} - -\section{Block displacement} -\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block, -weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high} -\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment, -nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role, -oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance} -\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical} -Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward}, -\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads} -\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical, -barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016} - -\section{Flow in porous media} -\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304} - -\chapter{Introduction} -In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto -the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a -photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the -conditions under which this event happened using field data along with -numerical modeling. - -The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing -the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale -of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow -\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting. - -This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to -obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known -thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}. -However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model, -it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw -buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater, -especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this -simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by -waves for validation. - -\chapter{Literature Review} -In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed. - -\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data} +\mainmatter +\include{bibliography_research} +\include{introduction} +\include{literature} +\backmatter \nocite{*} \printbibliography \end{document}