diff --git a/nature/fig/wavelet9312.pdf b/nature/fig/wavelet9312.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..1a8caa1 Binary files /dev/null and b/nature/fig/wavelet9312.pdf differ diff --git a/nature/fig/wavelet_sw.pdf b/nature/fig/wavelet_sw.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..38f0fbc Binary files /dev/null and b/nature/fig/wavelet_sw.pdf differ diff --git a/nature/library.bib b/nature/library.bib index d44e247..ea2c717 100644 --- a/nature/library.bib +++ b/nature/library.bib @@ -91,3 +91,13 @@ school={Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour}, chapter={4}, } +@article{torrence1998, + title={A practical guide to wavelet analysis}, + author={Torrence, Christopher and Compo, Gilbert P}, + journal={Bulletin of the American Meteorological society}, + volume={79}, + number={1}, + pages={61--78}, + year={1998}, + publisher={American Meteorological Society} +} diff --git a/nature/main.tex b/nature/main.tex index 19284d3..f31441d 100644 --- a/nature/main.tex +++ b/nature/main.tex @@ -126,6 +126,28 @@ the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where t qualitatively estimated position of the wave crest.}\label{fig:swash_trans} \end{figure*} +\subsection{Wavelet analysis} + +In an attempt to understand the identified wave, a wavelet analysis is conducted on raw buoy data as well as at +different points along the SWASH model using the method proposed by \textcite{torrence1998}. The results are displayed +in Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet} and Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet_sw}. The wavelet power spectrum shows that the major component +in the identified wave is a high energy infragravity wave, with a period of around 60s. + +The SWASH model seems to indicate that the observed transformation of the wave can be characterized by a transfer of +energy from the infragravity band to shorter waves from around 600m to 300m, and returning to the infragravity band at +200m. + +\begin{figure*} + \centering + \includegraphics{fig/wavelet9312.pdf} + \caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum from the raw buoy timeseries.}\label{fig:wavelet} +\end{figure*} +\begin{figure*} + \centering + \includegraphics{fig/wavelet_sw.pdf} + \caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum along the SWASH domain.}\label{fig:wavelet_sw} +\end{figure*} + \subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater} The two-dimensionnal olaFlow model near the breakwater allowed to compute the flow velocity near and on the breakwater @@ -145,6 +167,8 @@ exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s. \section{Discussion} + + \section{Methods} \printbibliography \end{document}