diff --git a/nature/fig/aw_t0.pdf b/nature/fig/aw_t0.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3837175 Binary files /dev/null and b/nature/fig/aw_t0.pdf differ diff --git a/nature/main.tex b/nature/main.tex index de39e93..19284d3 100644 --- a/nature/main.tex +++ b/nature/main.tex @@ -130,12 +130,14 @@ the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where t The two-dimensionnal olaFlow model near the breakwater allowed to compute the flow velocity near and on the breakwater during the passage of the identified wave. The results displayed in Figure~\ref{fig:U} show that the flow velocity -reaches a maximum of 14.5m/s towards the breakwater during the identified extreme wave. The maximum reached velocity is -similar to earlier shorter waves (at t=100s and t=120s), but the flow velocity remains high for twice as long as during -those earlier waves. The tail of the identified wave also exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s. +reaches a maximum of 14.5m/s towards the breakwater during the identified extreme wave. Although the maximum reached +velocity is slightly lower than earlier shorter waves (at t=100s and t=120s, with a maximum velocity of 17.3s), the +flow velocity remains high for twice as long as during those earlier waves. The tail of the identified wave also +exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s. \begin{figure*} \centering + \includegraphics{fig/aw_t0.pdf} \includegraphics{fig/U.pdf} \caption{Horizontal flow velocity computed with the olaFlow model at x=-20m on the breakwater armor. The identified wave reaches this point around t=175s.}\label{fig:U}