diff --git a/biblio/chapters/literature.tex b/biblio/chapters/literature.tex index bfffad5..4922ecf 100644 --- a/biblio/chapters/literature.tex +++ b/biblio/chapters/literature.tex @@ -34,13 +34,13 @@ located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation} analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and -suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted +suggest that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition} applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated. \textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea -state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the +state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relationship between the maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided. According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the @@ -86,10 +86,10 @@ and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small amount of error appears when noise is added. -\textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise led to -overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is -proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient -estimations. +\textcite{inch2016accurate} confirmed that the presence of noise led to +overestimation of the reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup +tables is proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection +coefficient estimations. \textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves @@ -138,7 +138,7 @@ theory, and provided accurate results for full reflection of irregular non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are -unreliable for higher frequency, where coherency between the two measured +unreliable for higher frequencies, where coherency between the two measured series is lower. Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming}, @@ -233,7 +233,7 @@ does increase the accuracy of the model. Similar results are found by \textcite{wen2016sph} when studying wave impact on non-porous structures using the same model. -The same model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by +That model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by \textcite{wen20183d}. The computed free surface and forces on a structure were shown to be accurately predicted by the 3D model. @@ -277,7 +277,7 @@ used for three-dimensional models. \textcite{altomare2017long} presented a wave generation method for long-crested (second order) waves in a WCSPH model using a piston wave maker. Although this -method leads to high reflection, but the possibility of generating irregular +method leads to high reflection, the possibility of generating irregular waves was highlighted. Similarly to \textcite{liu2015isph}, \textcite{wen2018non} proposed a wave @@ -318,7 +318,8 @@ applicability to such models in studying real cases using in-situ data. Contrary to SPH models, the volume of fluid (VOF) method relies on a Eulerian representation of the fluid \parencite{hirt1981volume}. This method uses a -marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a cell. +marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a mesh +cell. \subsubsection{2D models} @@ -545,6 +546,13 @@ depending on wave orientation. \subsection{Conclusion} +Block displacement by waves has been widely studied in the literature. +Nevertheless, most validation has been conducted using laboratory experiments, +and reliable real-world data on that subject is scarce. This highlights the +opportunity provided by the 2017 Saint-Jean-de-Luz event, as the availability +of in-situ data allows for real-world validation of the results from earlier +research. + %\subsection{In-situ studies} % %\cite{barbano2010large}: boulders deposity in Sicily -> probably tsunamis