From db148e8bdd8f636fc0337c420977d95d82634c1f Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: "Edgar P. 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These results would indicate that the identified wave is essentially an incident wave, with a minor reflected component. -The wavelet power spectrum displayed in Figure~\ref{wavelet} highlights a primary infragravity wave in the signal, with +The wavelet power spectrum displayed in Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet} highlights a primary infragravity wave in the signal, with a period of over 30s. \begin{figure*} @@ -173,7 +173,16 @@ exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s. \subsection{Incident wave} According to the criteria proposed by \textcite{dysthe2008}, rogue waves can be defined as waves with an amplitude over -twice the significant wave height over a given period. +twice the significant wave height over a given period. The identified wave fits this definition, as its amplitude is +14.7m, over twice the significant wave height of 6.3m on that day. According to \textcite{dysthe2008}, rogue waves +often occur from non-linear superposition of smaller waves. This seems to be what we observe on Figure~\ref{fig:wave}. + +The wavelet power spectrum shows that a very prominent infragravity component is present, which usually corresponds to +non-linear interactions of smaller waves. \textcite{dysthe2008} mentions that such waves in coastal waters are often +the result of refractive focusing. On February 28, 2017, the frequency of rogue waves was found to be of 1 wave per +1627, which is considerably more than the excedance probability of 1 over 10\textsuperscript4 calculated by +\textcite{dysthe2008}. Additionnal studies should be conducted to understand focusing and the formation of rogue waves +in front of the Saint-Jean-de-Luz bay. \subsection{Reflection analysis} @@ -181,7 +190,12 @@ The 13\% difference between those values highlights the existence of a notable a Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wave identified on February 28, 2017 at 17:23:08 could still be considered as an incident wave. -\subsection{} +Unfortunately, the spectrum wave generation method used by SWASH could not reproduce simlar waves to the one observed +at the buoy. As mentionned by \textcite{dysthe2008}, such rogue waves cannot be deterministicly from the wave spectrum. +For this reason, this study only allows us to observe the influence of reflection on short waves, while mostly ignoring +infragravity waves. + +\subsection{Wave transformation} \section{Methods} \printbibliography