diff --git a/nature/fig/x.pdf b/nature/fig/x.pdf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..edd801f Binary files /dev/null and b/nature/fig/x.pdf differ diff --git a/nature/main.tex b/nature/main.tex index 088c5e0..6848877 100644 --- a/nature/main.tex +++ b/nature/main.tex @@ -107,10 +107,27 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa \begin{figure*} \centering \includegraphics{fig/maxw.pdf} - \caption{Free surface obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater; + \caption{Free surface elevation obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater; \textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash} \end{figure*} +\subsection{Wave transformation} + +The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is +plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and +the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the +domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the +crest increases. + +\begin{figure*} + \centering + \includegraphics{fig/x.pdf} + \caption{Propagation of the wave supposed to be responsible for the block displacement; highlighted zone: + qualitatively estimated position of the wave.}\label{fig:swash_trans} +\end{figure*} + +\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater} + \section{Discussion} \section{Methods}