From f7d287394fd1af80725bedb80e6911aff50f0c59 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: "Edgar P. Burkhart" Date: Mon, 6 Jun 2022 09:41:23 +0200 Subject: [PATCH] Nature: start introduction --- nature/kalliope.conf | 4 +++ nature/library.bib | 86 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ nature/main.tex | 66 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 3 files changed, 156 insertions(+) create mode 100644 nature/kalliope.conf create mode 100644 nature/library.bib create mode 100644 nature/main.tex diff --git a/nature/kalliope.conf b/nature/kalliope.conf new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0e55077 --- /dev/null +++ b/nature/kalliope.conf @@ -0,0 +1,4 @@ +[latex] +engine=xelatex +main=main.tex +out=nature.pdf diff --git a/nature/library.bib b/nature/library.bib new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bd2cafa --- /dev/null +++ b/nature/library.bib @@ -0,0 +1,86 @@ +@misc{olaFlow, + author={Higuera, P.}, + title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].}, + year=2017, + doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013}, + url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013} +} +@report{parvin2020, + author={Amir Parvin}, + title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action}, + year={2020}, +} +@article{cox2018, + title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits}, + author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter}, + journal={Earth-Science Reviews}, + volume={177}, + pages={623--636}, + year={2018}, + publisher={Elsevier} +} +@article{shah2013, + title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age}, + author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A}, + journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie}, + volume={57}, + number={Suppl 4}, + pages={181--199}, + year={2013} +} +@article{nott1997, + title={Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef, Australia: determining the cause—tsunami or tropical cyclone}, + author={Nott, Jonathan}, + journal={Marine Geology}, + volume={141}, + number={1-4}, + pages={193--207}, + year={1997}, + publisher={Elsevier} +} +@article{nott2003, + title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting}, + author={Nott, Jonathan}, + journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters}, + volume={210}, + number={1-2}, + pages={269--276}, + year={2003}, + publisher={Elsevier} +} +@article{nandasena2011, + title={Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations: Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms, tsunamis)}, + author={Nandasena, NAK and Paris, Rapha{\"e}l and Tanaka, Norio}, + journal={Marine Geology}, + volume={281}, + number={1-4}, + pages={70--84}, + year={2011}, + publisher={Elsevier} +} +@article{weiss2015, + title={Untangling boulder dislodgement in storms and tsunamis: Is it possible with simple theories?}, + author={Weiss, R and Diplas, P}, + journal={Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems}, + volume={16}, + number={3}, + pages={890--898}, + year={2015}, + publisher={Wiley Online Library} +} +@article{zijlema2011, + title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters}, + author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter}, + journal={Coastal Engineering}, + volume={58}, + number={10}, + pages={992--1012}, + year={2011}, + publisher={Elsevier} +} +@article{higuera2015, + title={Application of computational fluid dynamics to wave action on structures}, + author={Higuera, P}, + journal={PhD. Universidade de Cantabria}, + year={2015} +} diff --git a/nature/main.tex b/nature/main.tex new file mode 100644 index 0000000..518ac7f --- /dev/null +++ b/nature/main.tex @@ -0,0 +1,66 @@ +\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article} +\usepackage{polyglossia} +\usepackage{authblk} + +\setmainlanguage{english} + +\usepackage[ + backend=biber, + style=iso-authoryear, + sorting=nyt, +]{biblatex} +\bibliography{library} + +\title{Analysis of the displacement of a large concrete block under an extreme wave} +\author[1]{Edgar P. Burkhart} +\author[*,1]{Stéphane Abadie} + +\affil[1]{Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA, SIAME, France} +\affil[*]{Corresponding Author, stephane.abadie@univ-pau.fr} + +\begin{document} +\maketitle + +\section{Introduction} +% Displacement of blocks studies +Displacement of large blocks or boulders by waves is an interesting phenomenon in the study of extreme historical +coastal events. The existence of block deposits at unusual heights can be a clue to past events such as extreme storms +or tsunamis. For instance, \textcite{cox2018} studied coastal deposits on the coast of Ireland in relation to the +storms from winter 2013--2014, and extracted criteria for analysing such deposits. Similarly, \textcite{shah2013} +found boulder deposits on the mediterranean coast to be evidence of extreme storms in the Little Ice Age. + +% Need for analytical equations +In order for those studies to be possible, analytical criterias are needed in order to ascertain the cause of the +displacement of a block. \textcite{nott1997,nott2003} proposed a set of equations that have been widely used for that +purpose. Those equations rely on an equilibrium relation between the lift force produced by a wave and restraining +forces depending on the initial setting of the block, allowing to extract a minimal flow velocity necessary for +movement initiation. A parametrisation of waves depending on their source is also used to provide minimal wave heights +depending on the type of scenario --- wave or tsunami. Those equations were later revised by \textcite{nandasena2011}, +as they were found to be partially incorrect. A revised formulation based on the same considerations was provided. + +The assumptions on which \citeauthor{nott2003, nandasena2011} are based were then critisized by \textcite{weiss2015}. +In fact, according to them, the initiation of movement is not sufficient to guarantee block displacement. +\textcite{weiss2015} highlights the importance of the time dependency on block displacement. A method is proposed that +allows to find the wave amplitude that lead to block displacement. + +% Lack of observations -> observation +Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss2015}, all the proposed analytical +equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis. +Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past. + +In this paper, we study such an event. In february 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the +Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured +the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block +displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to +the displacement of the 50T concrete block. + +% Modeling flow accounting for porous media +Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater. + +\section{Results} + +\section{Discussion} + +\section{Methods} +\printbibliography +\end{document}