\chapter{Bibliography research}
\section{Extracting components from buoy data}
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
spectrum measurements at three different points.
\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation,
roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation}

\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge}
\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method}
Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}:
\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant}
Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming}

\cite{pedersen2007resolving}
\paragraph{puv method}
\cite{sobey1999locally}
\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection}
\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ}

\section{Reflection}
\paragraph{wave reflection analysis}
\cite{davidson1996new}

\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media}
\paragraph{olaFlow}
\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three}

\section{Breakwater modeling}
\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical} (SPH);

\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d} (RANS)
\cite{sumer2000experimental} (experimental)
\cite{kim2005neural} (neural networks for breakwater design)
\cite{troch1999development} (VOFbreak, NS)
\cite{koley2020numerical}
\cite{losada1979joint}
\cite{lara2008wave} (COBRAS-UC, VARANS)
\cite{losada2008numerical} (COBRAS-UC, VARANS)

\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002} (VARANS)

\section{Modeling}
\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
mentaschi2013,rusu2011}

\section{Block displacement}
\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high}
\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment,
nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role,
oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance}
\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical}
Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward},
\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads}
\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical,
barbano2010large,paris2011,biolchi2016}

\section{Other}
\cite{miche1951}

\cite{isobe1985method}
\section{Flow in porous media}
\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{shao2010}