\chapter{Bibliography research} \section{Extracting components from buoy data} \paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation} \cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from spectrum measurements at three different points. \cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation, roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation} \paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge} \paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method} Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}: \cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant} Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming} \cite{pedersen2007resolving} \paragraph{puv method} \cite{sobey1999locally} \paragraph{artha breakwater reflection} \cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ} \section{Reflection} \paragraph{wave reflection analysis} \cite{davidson1996new} \section{Modeling wave impact on porous media} \paragraph{olaFlow} \cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three} \section{Breakwater modeling} \paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical}; \paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d, sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical, losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical} \paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002} \section{Modeling} \paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015, mentaschi2013,rusu2011} \section{Block displacement} \paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block, weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high} \paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment, nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role, oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance} \paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical} Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward}, \cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads} \paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical, barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016} \section{Other} \cite{miche1951} \section{Flow in porous media} \paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}