<html><head><meta name="color-scheme" content="light dark"></head><body><pre style="word-wrap: break-word; white-space: pre-wrap;">\documentclass[english, a4paper, 12pt]{article}
\usepackage{cours}
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\title{OpenFoam Project\\\huge Simulation of the breaking wave flow at the
Artha breakwater}
\author{Edgar P. Burkhart}

\begin{document}
\maketitle

\tableofcontents

\section{Introduction}
In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave at
the Artha breakwater, in the entrance of the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This
event was captured by a photographer, and an initial study (\cite{amir})
allowed to highlight the circumstances which caused the block displacement.

The phenomenon of block displacement by waves has been studied in the past with
multiple approaches (\cite{cox2018extraordinary,shah2013coastal}). In 2014, a
study of displaced blocks on the coast of Ireland was conducted by
\cite{cox2018extraordinary}. This study highlighted a strong correlation
between the mass of displaced boulders and coastal topography. Notably, an
inverse exponential relation between boulder mass and elevation was
established. According to the presentation by \cite{abadie}, the block that was
displaced at the Artha breakwater in 2017 falls in accordance with these
results, as shown in \autoref{fig:compcox}.

\begin{figure}
	\centering
	\begin{tikzpicture}
		\begin{semilogyaxis}[
				xmin=0,
				xmax=25,
				ymin=0.1,
				ymax=1000,
				domain=0:25,
				grid=both,
				legend entries={\cite{cox2018extraordinary}, Artha 2017},
				xlabel={Elevation (\si{\m})},
				ylabel={Mass (\si{\tonne})},
			]
			\addplot[no markers] {exp(5.01-0.15*x)};
			\addplot[only marks] coordinates {
				(10,50)
			};
		\end{semilogyaxis}
	\end{tikzpicture}
	\caption{Comparison between the correlation found by
	\cite{cox2018extraordinary} and the block displaced at the Artha breakwater
	in 2017.}\label{fig:compcox}
\end{figure}

\cite{shah2013coastal} studied coastal boulders in Martigues, on the french
mediterranean coast. Similarly to \cite{cox2018extraordinary}, displaced
boulders were studied regarding their mass and position on the shore.
The study concludes that those blocks are evidence of the risks associated with
high energy waves on the mediterranean coast, and links the displaced boulders
to extreme storms, but does not exclude the possibility of tsunamis.

Other studies focus on the theoretical aspects of bock displacement by water
flow. \cite{nott2003waves} proposed a set of equations for determining the
minimum wave height that would lead to displacement of a boulder in different
scenarios. This study highlights that the environment of the boulder before
transport is a major factor in calculating that minimum wave height, as well
as water depth at the boulder initial location.

\section{Methods}

\section{Results}

\section{Conclusion}

\nocite{*}
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\end{document}
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