\documentclass[english, a4paper, 12pt]{article} \usepackage{cours} \setmainlanguage{english} \usepackage[ backend=biber, sorting=ynt, style=authoryear ]{biblatex} \bibliography{library} \title{OpenFoam Project\\\huge Simulation of the breaking wave flow at the Artha breakwater} \author{Edgar P. Burkhart} \begin{document} \maketitle \tableofcontents \section{Introduction} In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave at the Artha breakwater, in the entrance of the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a photographer, and an initial study (\cite{amir}) allowed to highlight the circumstances which caused the block displacement. The phenomenon of block displacement by waves has been studied in the past with multiple approaches (\cite{cox2018extraordinary,shah2013coastal}). In 2014, a study of displaced blocks on the coast of Ireland was conducted by \cite{cox2018extraordinary}. This study highlighted a strong correlation between the mass of displaced boulders and coastal topography. Notably, an inverse exponential relation between boulder mass and elevation was established. According to the presentation by \cite{abadie}, the block that was displaced at the Artha breakwater in 2017 falls in accordance with these results, as shown in \autoref{fig:compcox}. \begin{figure} \centering \begin{tikzpicture} \begin{semilogyaxis}[ xmin=0, xmax=25, ymin=0.1, ymax=1000, domain=0:25, grid=both, legend entries={\cite{cox2018extraordinary}, Artha 2017}, xlabel={Elevation (\si{\m})}, ylabel={Mass (\si{\tonne})}, ] \addplot[no markers] {exp(5.01-0.15*x)}; \addplot[only marks] coordinates { (10,50) }; \end{semilogyaxis} \end{tikzpicture} \caption{Comparison between the correlation found by \cite{cox2018extraordinary} and the block displaced at the Artha breakwater in 2017.}\label{fig:compcox} \end{figure} \cite{shah2013coastal} studied coastal boulders in Martigues, on the french mediterranean coast. Similarly to \cite{cox2018extraordinary}, displaced boulders were studied regarding their mass and position on the shore. The study concludes that those blocks are evidence of the risks associated with high energy waves on the mediterranean coast, and links the displaced boulders to extreme storms, but does not exclude the possibility of tsunamis. Other studies focus on the theoretical aspects of bock displacement by water flow. \cite{nott2003waves} proposed a set of equations for determining the minimum wave height that would lead to displacement of a boulder in different scenarios. This study highlights that the environment of the boulder before transport is a major factor in calculating that minimum wave height, as well as water depth at the boulder initial location. \section{Methods} \section{Results} \section{Conclusion} \nocite{*} \printbibliography \end{document}