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@ -7,3 +7,120 @@ from the crest).
A tool that allows mapping the output fields from swash to the initial fields A tool that allows mapping the output fields from swash to the initial fields
in olaFlow was built. Alpha.water and U fields are mapped from swash to in olaFlow was built. Alpha.water and U fields are mapped from swash to
olaFlow. olaFlow.
Boundary conditions are set using the output from the swash model.
A regular mesh is generated and snapped to the bathymetry (mesh resolution: \SI{.5}{\m}).
Simulation is run for 400 seconds using the largest wave from the swash model with the buoy spectrum as an input
(\autoref{fig:wave}).
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{wave.pdf}
\caption{Boundary condition for olaflow model.}\label{fig:wave}
\end{figure}
Results are plotted using python \autoref{fig:resola}.
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{resola.pdf}
\caption{Results from olaFlow model.}\label{fig:resola}
\end{figure}
\subsection{Porosity parameters}
Several parameters should be calibrated in order to accurately model the porous media: $a$, $b$ and $c$ are friction
parameters in Forcheimer's equation; D50 is the median diameter of the elements constituting the porous media; $p$ is
the porosity of the media.
7 cases were run with the values in \autoref{tab:porotest}.
\begin{table}
\centering
\begin{tabular}{cccccc}
\toprule
\textbf{Case} & $a$ & $b$ & $c$ & D50 (\si{\m}) & $\phi$ \\
\midrule
\textbf{0} & \num{50} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{1} & \intersemibold\num{0} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{2} & \intersemibold\num{5000} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{3} & \num{50} & \intersemibold\num{0} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{4} & \num{50} & \intersemibold\num{3.0} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{5} & \num{50} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \intersemibold\num{2} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{6} & \num{50} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \intersemibold\num{0.25} \\
\bottomrule
\end{tabular}
\caption{Test cases for porosity parameters.}\label{tab:porotest}
\end{table}
Some results are displayed in \autoref{fig:diff} and \autoref{fig:diff2}. No major differences are noticable
between cases (excepted for case 3, where $b=0$).
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diff.pdf}
\caption{Tests for porosity parameters; water - air border at \SI{-50}{\m}.}\label{fig:diff}
\end{figure}
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diff2.pdf}
\caption{Tests for porosity parameters; water - air border at \SI{-20}{\m}.}\label{fig:diff2}
\end{figure}
Another run with a different value for $b$ was made (\autoref{tab:porotestb}). Results are in \autoref{fig:diff3b}.
The value of $b$ seems to have a major effect how wave energy is dissipated / how waves break, as seen in
\autoref{fig:diff3b175}.
\begin{table}
\centering
\begin{tabular}{cccccc}
\toprule
\textbf{Case} & $a$ & $b$ & $c$ & D50 (\si{\m}) & $\phi$ \\
\midrule
\textbf{0} & \num{50} & \num{1.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\
\textbf{1} & \num{50} & \intersemibold\num{0} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\ % 3
\textbf{2} & \num{50} & \intersemibold\num{0.2} & \num{0.34} & \num{4} & \num{0.4} \\ % 3b
\bottomrule
\end{tabular}
\caption{Test cases for porosity parameters.}\label{tab:porotestb}
\end{table}
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diff3b.pdf}
\caption{Tests for porosity parameters; water - air border at \SI{-20}{\m}.}\label{fig:diff3b}
\end{figure}
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diff3b175.pdf}
\caption{Tests for porosity parameters; water - air border at \SI{175}{\s}.}\label{fig:diff3b175}
\end{figure}
\subsection{Turbulence model}
A case with the $k-\omega$ SST turbulence model was run to compare with the $k-\varepsilon$ model.
Results displayed in \autoref{fig:sst}. Significant differences are found between both models.
Wave breaking as expected using SST model (\autoref{fig:sst175}). See
\url{https://public.edgarpierre.fr/anim_olaflow_kom.mp4}
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diffsst.pdf}
\caption{$x=\SI{-50}{\m}$. Case 1: $k-\varepsilon$ model; case 2: $k-\omega$ SST model.}\label{fig:sst}
\end{figure}
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{diffsst175.pdf}
\caption{$t=\SI{175}{\s}$. Case 1: $k-\varepsilon$ model; case 2: $k-\omega$ SST model.}\label{fig:sst175}
\end{figure}
\subsection{Results}
Maximum flow velocity is displayed in \autoref{fig:maxu}.
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{maxu.pdf}
\caption{Maximum velocity.}\label{fig:maxu}
\end{figure}
The flow reaches \SIrange{15}{20}{\m\per\s} velocity, which is in accordance with results from \textcite{amir}.

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@ -124,5 +124,39 @@ Model runs with 4 layers. \autoref{fig:rests4lay}.
\caption{Results with real timeseries, 4 layers.}\label{fig:rests4lay} \caption{Results with real timeseries, 4 layers.}\label{fig:rests4lay}
\end{figure} \end{figure}
\section{Reflection coefficient verification}
A small Python script has been written to generate theoretical wave height and homogenized velocity for a combination of
incident and reflected waves.
The method was taken from \parencite{huntley1999use}. Incident waves are modelled by white noise, reflected waves are
incident waves shifted and multiplied by the reflection coefficient. Water level is the sum of incident waves and
reflected waves, velocity is the difference of reflected waves and incident waves. Additionnal noise is added to the
water level and velocity.
Results are displayed in \autoref{fig:r_test}.
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{r_test.pdf}
\caption{Reflection coefficient testing (puv method from \cite{huntley1999use}).}\label{fig:r_test}
\end{figure}
\section{Plotting orbitals from buoy measurements}
\autoref{fig:orbitals}. Orbital for the large wave have been plotted in the average motion plane of the buoy.
\begin{figure}
\centering
\includegraphics{orbitals.pdf}
\caption{2Dv buoy trajectory for wave event of 20170228.}\label{fig:orbitals}
\end{figure}
\subsection{Buoy spectrum}
The swash model was run over 4 hours with the spectrum obtained from the buoy, with and without the breakwater. (2
layers).
A zero-crossing methods was implemented to find the largest waves.
%\subsection{2D Model} %\subsection{2D Model}
%Working on 2D model which might work with overtopping. %Working on 2D model which might work with overtopping.

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%inter-unit-product = {.}, %inter-unit-product = {.},
per-mode = power-positive-first, per-mode = power-positive-first,
uncertainty-mode = separate, uncertainty-mode = separate,
reset-text-family = false,
} }
\SendSettingsToPgf \SendSettingsToPgf
\DeclareSIUnit\met{met} \DeclareSIUnit\met{met}

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