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Biblio: array methods

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105
biblio/chapters/literature.tex
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@ -4,12 +4,12 @@ In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
boundary will not be correctly generated.
Several methods exist to extract incident and reflected components in measured
seastates,
sea states,
and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
@ -17,38 +17,87 @@ reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
\subsection{Array methods}
\begin{itemize}
\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate
incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3
positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation.
\parencite{gaillard1980}
\subsubsection{2-point methods}
Array methods were developped as a way to isolate incident and reflected wave
components using multiple wave records.
\textcite{goda1977estimation,morden1977decomposition} used two wave gauges
located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to
extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the
earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation}
analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and
suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are
multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition}
applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated.
\textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral
analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea
state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the
maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided.
According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on
the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
reflection process.
\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards
and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with
small filters. SIRW Method, realtime.
\subsubsection{3-point methods}
In order to alleviate the limitations from the 2-point methods,
\textcite{mansard1980measurement} introduced a 3-point method. The addition of
a supplementary measurement point along with the use of a least-squares method
most importantly provided less sensitivity to
noise, non-linear interactions, and probe spacing. The admissible frequency
range could also be widened. A similar method was proposed by
\textcite{gaillard1980}. The accuracy of the method for the estimation of
incident and reflected wave components was once again highlighted, while the
importance of adequate positioning of the gauges was still noted.
\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time},
arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection
coefficients, larger for low reflection.
\subsubsection{Time-domain method}
\textcite{frigaard1995time} presented a time-domain method for reflected and
incident wave separation. This method, called SIRW method, used discrete
filters to extract the incident component of an irregular wave field. The
results were as accurate as with the method proposed by
\cite{goda1977estimation}, while singularity points are better accounted for.
The main advantage of the SIRW method is that it works in the time-domain,
meaning that real time computations can be performed.
\textcite{frigaard1995time} also mentions the possibility of replacing one of
the wave gauges by a velocity meters to prevent singularities.
\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on
a known current.
This method was improved by \textcite{baldock1999separation} in order to
account for arbitrary bathymetry. Linear theory is used to compute shoaling on
the varying bathymetry. Resulting errors in the computed reflection coefficient
are low for large reflection coefficients, but increase with lower
coefficients. The neglect of shoaling can lead to important error in many
cases. The presented method could also be extended to three-dimensionnal waves
and bathymetry by considering the influence of refraction.
\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced
bias in array methods.
\subsubsection{Further improvements}
Further additions were made to array methods. \textcite{suh2001separation}
developped a method taking constant current into account to separate incident
and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small
amount of error appears when noise is added.
\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components
for non-linear waves.
\textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise lead to
overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is
proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient
estimations.
\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves.
\end{itemize}
\textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed
improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves
respectively. The improved method provides very accurate results for highly
non-linear waves, but are expected to be unreliable in the case of steep
seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
\subsubsection{Conclusion}
Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
range of situations. However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
available.
\subsection{PUV methods}
\begin{itemize}
\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined
with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for
reflectivities over 0.3.
\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave
combined with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and
runup for reflectivities over 0.3.
\item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
@ -60,14 +109,14 @@ reflectivities over 0.3.
quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
reflected energy than incident energy.
reflected energy than incident energy.
\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of
irregular non breaking waves.
horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection
of irregular non breaking waves.
\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
noise-induced bias.
noise-induced bias.
\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
\end{itemize}

270
biblio/library.bib
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@ -535,162 +535,190 @@
}
@article{PARIS20111,
title = {Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
journal = {Marine Geology},
volume = {283},
number = {1},
pages = {1-11},
year = {2011},
note = {Special Issue on Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
issn = {0025-3227},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.03.016},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532271100079X},
author = {Raphaël Paris and Larissa A. Naylor and Wayne J. Stephenson},
title={Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
journal={Marine Geology},
volume={283},
number={1},
pages={1-11},
year={2011},
note={Special Issue on Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
issn={0025-3227},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.03.016},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532271100079X},
author={Raphaël Paris and Larissa A. Naylor and Wayne J. Stephenson},
}
@article{biolchi2016,
AUTHOR = {Biolchi, S. and Furlani, S. and Antonioli, F. and Baldassini, N. and Causon Deguara, J. and Devoto, S. and Di Stefano, A. and Evans, J. and Gambin, T. and Gauci, R. and Mastronuzzi, G. and Monaco, C. and Scicchitano, G.},
TITLE = {Boulder accumulations related to extreme wave events on the eastern coast of Malta},
JOURNAL = {Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences},
VOLUME = {16},
YEAR = {2016},
NUMBER = {3},
PAGES = {737--756},
URL = {https://nhess.copernicus.org/articles/16/737/2016/},
DOI = {10.5194/nhess-16-737-2016}
AUTHOR={Biolchi, S. and Furlani, S. and Antonioli, F. and Baldassini, N. and Causon Deguara, J. and Devoto, S. and Di Stefano, A. and Evans, J. and Gambin, T. and Gauci, R. and Mastronuzzi, G. and Monaco, C. and Scicchitano, G.},
TITLE={Boulder accumulations related to extreme wave events on the eastern coast of Malta},
JOURNAL={Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences},
VOLUME={16},
YEAR={2016},
NUMBER={3},
PAGES={737--756},
URL={https://nhess.copernicus.org/articles/16/737/2016/},
DOI={10.5194/nhess-16-737-2016}
}
@article{SHAO2010304,
title = {Incompressible SPH flow model for wave interactions with porous media},
journal = {Coastal Engineering},
volume = {57},
number = {3},
pages = {304-316},
year = {2010},
issn = {0378-3839},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.012},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383909001628},
author = {Songdong Shao},
keywords = {ISPH, Porous flow, Wave damping, Breakwater},
title={Incompressible SPH flow model for wave interactions with porous media},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={57},
number={3},
pages={304-316},
year={2010},
issn={0378-3839},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.012},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383909001628},
author={Songdong Shao},
keywords={ISPH, Porous flow, Wave damping, Breakwater},
}
@article{hsu2002,
title = {A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater},
journal = {Coastal Engineering},
volume = {46},
number = {1},
pages = {25-50},
year = {2002},
issn = {0378-3839},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00045-5},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383902000455},
author = {Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
keywords = {Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
title={A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={46},
number={1},
pages={25-50},
year={2002},
issn={0378-3839},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00045-5},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383902000455},
author={Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
keywords={Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
}
@article{thomas2015,
title = {Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
journal = {Aquatic Procedia},
volume = {4},
pages = {443-448},
year = {2015},
note = {INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON WATER RESOURCES, COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (ICWRCOE'15)},
issn = {2214-241X},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aqpro.2015.02.059},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214241X15000607},
author = {T. Justin Thomas and G.S. Dwarakish},
keywords = {numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
title={Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
journal={Aquatic Procedia},
volume={4},
pages={443-448},
year={2015},
note={INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON WATER RESOURCES, COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (ICWRCOE'15)},
issn={2214-241X},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aqpro.2015.02.059},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214241X15000607},
author={T. Justin Thomas and G.S. Dwarakish},
keywords={numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
}
@article{mentaschi2013,
title = {Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
journal = {Ocean Modelling},
volume = {72},
pages = {53-58},
year = {2013},
issn = {1463-5003},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.08.003},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500313001418},
author = {L. Mentaschi and G. Besio and F. Cassola and A. Mazzino},
keywords = {Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
title={Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
journal={Ocean Modelling},
volume={72},
pages={53-58},
year={2013},
issn={1463-5003},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.08.003},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500313001418},
author={L. Mentaschi and G. Besio and F. Cassola and A. Mazzino},
keywords={Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
}
@article{rusu2011,
author = {Rusu, Eugen},
year = {2011},
title = {STRATEGIES IN USING NUMERICAL WAVE MODELS IN OCEAN/COASTAL APPLICATIONS},
journal = {Journal of Marine Science and Technology},
volume = {19},
issue = {1},
doi = {10.51400/2709-6998.2138},
author={Rusu, Eugen},
year={2011},
title={STRATEGIES IN USING NUMERICAL WAVE MODELS IN OCEAN/COASTAL APPLICATIONS},
journal={Journal of Marine Science and Technology},
volume={19},
issue={1},
doi={10.51400/2709-6998.2138},
}
@inbook{gaillard1980,
author = {Pierre Gaillard and Michel Gauthier and Forrest Holly },
title = {Method of Analysis of Random Wave Experiments with Reflecting Coastal Structures},
year = {1980},
booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1980},
pages = {204-220},
doi = {10.1061/9780872622647.011},
URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
author={Pierre Gaillard and Michel Gauthier and Forrest Holly },
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year={1980},
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eprint={https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
}
@inbook{guza1984,
author = {R. T. Guza and E. B. Thornton and R. A. Holman },
title = {Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches},
booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1984},
chapter = {},
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author={R. T. Guza and E. B. Thornton and R. A. Holman },
title={Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches},
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}
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author={Susumu Kubota and Masaru Mizuguchi and Mitsuo Takezawa },
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booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1990},
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}
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title = {Wave reflection from natural beaches},
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year = {1992},
issn = {0029-8018},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272},
author = {T.L. Walton},
title={Wave reflection from natural beaches},
journal={Ocean Engineering},
volume={19},
number={3},
pages={239-258},
year={1992},
issn={0029-8018},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272},
author={T.L. Walton},
}
@article{hughes1993,
title = {Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
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pages = {223-247},
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title={Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
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volume={20},
number={3},
pages={223-247},
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issn={0378-3839},
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q},
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q},
author={Steven A. Hughes},
}
@report{miche1951,
title = {Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
title={Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
de la houle},
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publisher={École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
booktitle={Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
}
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title={Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments},
author={Goda, Yoshimi and Suzuki, Yasumasa},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
pages={828--845},
year={1977}
}
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}
@article{thornton1972spectral,
title={Spectral resolution of breakwater reflected waves},
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volume={98},
number={4},
pages={443--460},
year={1972},
publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}

9
biblio/main.tex
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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book}
\documentclass[english, a4paper]{book}
\usepackage{cours}
\setmainlanguage{english}
@ -15,11 +15,6 @@
pdfauthor = {Edgar P. Burkhart},
}
\includeonly{
chapters/introduction,
chapters/literature,
}
\title{\interlight\huge M2 Internship\\{\Huge Bibliography review}\\
\vspace{1em}
Simulation
@ -31,6 +26,8 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017}
\affil{École Normale Supérieure Paris-Saclay}
\date{February 2022}
\setcounter{tocdepth}{3}
\begin{document}
\frontmatter
\maketitle