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Biblio: array methods

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@ -17,38 +17,87 @@ reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal. measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
\subsection{Array methods} \subsection{Array methods}
\begin{itemize} \subsubsection{2-point methods}
\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate Array methods were developped as a way to isolate incident and reflected wave
incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3 components using multiple wave records.
positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation. \textcite{goda1977estimation,morden1977decomposition} used two wave gauges
\parencite{gaillard1980} located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to
extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the
earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation}
analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and
suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are
multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition}
applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated.
\textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral
analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea
state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the
maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided.
According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on
the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
reflection process.
\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards \subsubsection{3-point methods}
and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with In order to alleviate the limitations from the 2-point methods,
small filters. SIRW Method, realtime. \textcite{mansard1980measurement} introduced a 3-point method. The addition of
a supplementary measurement point along with the use of a least-squares method
most importantly provided less sensitivity to
noise, non-linear interactions, and probe spacing. The admissible frequency
range could also be widened. A similar method was proposed by
\textcite{gaillard1980}. The accuracy of the method for the estimation of
incident and reflected wave components was once again highlighted, while the
importance of adequate positioning of the gauges was still noted.
\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time}, \subsubsection{Time-domain method}
arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection \textcite{frigaard1995time} presented a time-domain method for reflected and
coefficients, larger for low reflection. incident wave separation. This method, called SIRW method, used discrete
filters to extract the incident component of an irregular wave field. The
results were as accurate as with the method proposed by
\cite{goda1977estimation}, while singularity points are better accounted for.
The main advantage of the SIRW method is that it works in the time-domain,
meaning that real time computations can be performed.
\textcite{frigaard1995time} also mentions the possibility of replacing one of
the wave gauges by a velocity meters to prevent singularities.
\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on This method was improved by \textcite{baldock1999separation} in order to
a known current. account for arbitrary bathymetry. Linear theory is used to compute shoaling on
the varying bathymetry. Resulting errors in the computed reflection coefficient
are low for large reflection coefficients, but increase with lower
coefficients. The neglect of shoaling can lead to important error in many
cases. The presented method could also be extended to three-dimensionnal waves
and bathymetry by considering the influence of refraction.
\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced \subsubsection{Further improvements}
bias in array methods. Further additions were made to array methods. \textcite{suh2001separation}
developped a method taking constant current into account to separate incident
and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small
amount of error appears when noise is added.
\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components \textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise lead to
for non-linear waves. overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is
proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient
estimations.
\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves. \textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed
\end{itemize} improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves
respectively. The improved method provides very accurate results for highly
non-linear waves, but are expected to be unreliable in the case of steep
seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
\subsubsection{Conclusion}
Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
range of situations. However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
available.
\subsection{PUV methods} \subsection{PUV methods}
\begin{itemize} \begin{itemize}
\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined \item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave
with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for combined with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and
reflectivities over 0.3. runup for reflectivities over 0.3.
\item ?? \cite{guza1984}: \item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
@ -63,8 +112,8 @@ reflectivities over 0.3.
reflected energy than incident energy. reflected energy than incident energy.
\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or \item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection
irregular non breaking waves. of irregular non breaking waves.
\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid \item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
noise-induced bias. noise-induced bias.

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@ -694,3 +694,31 @@
publisher={École nationale des ponts et chaussées}, publisher={École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
booktitle={Hydraulic Engineering Reports}, booktitle={Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
} }
@incollection{goda1977estimation,
title={Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments},
author={Goda, Yoshimi and Suzuki, Yasumasa},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
pages={828--845},
year={1977}
}
@incollection{morden1977decomposition,
title={Decomposition of co-existing random wave energy},
author={Morden, Dennis B and Richey, Eugene P and Christensen, Derald R},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
pages={846--865},
year={1977}
}
@article{thornton1972spectral,
title={Spectral resolution of breakwater reflected waves},
author={Thornton, Edward B and Calhoun, Ronald J},
journal={Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division},
volume={98},
number={4},
pages={443--460},
year={1972},
publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}

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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book} \documentclass[english, a4paper]{book}
\usepackage{cours} \usepackage{cours}
\setmainlanguage{english} \setmainlanguage{english}
@ -15,11 +15,6 @@
pdfauthor = {Edgar P. Burkhart}, pdfauthor = {Edgar P. Burkhart},
} }
\includeonly{
chapters/introduction,
chapters/literature,
}
\title{\interlight\huge M2 Internship\\{\Huge Bibliography review}\\ \title{\interlight\huge M2 Internship\\{\Huge Bibliography review}\\
\vspace{1em} \vspace{1em}
Simulation Simulation
@ -31,6 +26,8 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017}
\affil{École Normale Supérieure Paris-Saclay} \affil{École Normale Supérieure Paris-Saclay}
\date{February 2022} \date{February 2022}
\setcounter{tocdepth}{3}
\begin{document} \begin{document}
\frontmatter \frontmatter
\maketitle \maketitle