Biblio: array methods
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@ -4,12 +4,12 @@ In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
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modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
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boundary will not be correctly generated.
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Several methods exist to extract incident and reflected components in measured
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seastates,
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sea states,
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and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
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and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
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@ -17,38 +17,87 @@ reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
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measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
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\subsection{Array methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate
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incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3
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positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation.
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\parencite{gaillard1980}
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\subsubsection{2-point methods}
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Array methods were developped as a way to isolate incident and reflected wave
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components using multiple wave records.
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\textcite{goda1977estimation,morden1977decomposition} used two wave gauges
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located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to
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extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the
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earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation}
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analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and
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suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
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that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are
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multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition}
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applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated.
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\textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral
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analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea
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state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the
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maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided.
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According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on
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the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
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reflection process.
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\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards
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and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with
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small filters. SIRW Method, realtime.
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\subsubsection{3-point methods}
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In order to alleviate the limitations from the 2-point methods,
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\textcite{mansard1980measurement} introduced a 3-point method. The addition of
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a supplementary measurement point along with the use of a least-squares method
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most importantly provided less sensitivity to
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noise, non-linear interactions, and probe spacing. The admissible frequency
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range could also be widened. A similar method was proposed by
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\textcite{gaillard1980}. The accuracy of the method for the estimation of
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incident and reflected wave components was once again highlighted, while the
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importance of adequate positioning of the gauges was still noted.
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\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time},
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arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection
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coefficients, larger for low reflection.
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\subsubsection{Time-domain method}
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\textcite{frigaard1995time} presented a time-domain method for reflected and
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incident wave separation. This method, called SIRW method, used discrete
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filters to extract the incident component of an irregular wave field. The
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results were as accurate as with the method proposed by
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\cite{goda1977estimation}, while singularity points are better accounted for.
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The main advantage of the SIRW method is that it works in the time-domain,
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meaning that real time computations can be performed.
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\textcite{frigaard1995time} also mentions the possibility of replacing one of
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the wave gauges by a velocity meters to prevent singularities.
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\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on
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a known current.
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This method was improved by \textcite{baldock1999separation} in order to
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account for arbitrary bathymetry. Linear theory is used to compute shoaling on
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the varying bathymetry. Resulting errors in the computed reflection coefficient
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are low for large reflection coefficients, but increase with lower
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coefficients. The neglect of shoaling can lead to important error in many
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cases. The presented method could also be extended to three-dimensionnal waves
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and bathymetry by considering the influence of refraction.
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\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced
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bias in array methods.
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\subsubsection{Further improvements}
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Further additions were made to array methods. \textcite{suh2001separation}
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developped a method taking constant current into account to separate incident
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and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
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squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small
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amount of error appears when noise is added.
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\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components
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for non-linear waves.
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\textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise lead to
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overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is
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proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient
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estimations.
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\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves.
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\end{itemize}
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\textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed
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improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves
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respectively. The improved method provides very accurate results for highly
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non-linear waves, but are expected to be unreliable in the case of steep
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seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
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\subsubsection{Conclusion}
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Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
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range of situations. However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
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That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
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other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
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available.
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\subsection{PUV methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined
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with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for
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reflectivities over 0.3.
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\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave
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combined with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and
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runup for reflectivities over 0.3.
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\item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
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@ -60,14 +109,14 @@ reflectivities over 0.3.
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quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
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\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
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reflected energy than incident energy.
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reflected energy than incident energy.
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\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
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horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of
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irregular non breaking waves.
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horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection
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of irregular non breaking waves.
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\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
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noise-induced bias.
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noise-induced bias.
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\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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\end{itemize}
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@ -535,162 +535,190 @@
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}
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@article{PARIS20111,
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title = {Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
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journal = {Marine Geology},
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volume = {283},
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number = {1},
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pages = {1-11},
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year = {2011},
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issn = {0025-3227},
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|
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volume={283},
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number={1},
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pages={1-11},
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year={2011},
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note={Special Issue on Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
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issn={0025-3227},
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doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.03.016},
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url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532271100079X},
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author={Raphaël Paris and Larissa A. Naylor and Wayne J. Stephenson},
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}
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AUTHOR = {Biolchi, S. and Furlani, S. and Antonioli, F. and Baldassini, N. and Causon Deguara, J. and Devoto, S. and Di Stefano, A. and Evans, J. and Gambin, T. and Gauci, R. and Mastronuzzi, G. and Monaco, C. and Scicchitano, G.},
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YEAR = {2016},
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PAGES = {737--756},
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DOI = {10.5194/nhess-16-737-2016}
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AUTHOR={Biolchi, S. and Furlani, S. and Antonioli, F. and Baldassini, N. and Causon Deguara, J. and Devoto, S. and Di Stefano, A. and Evans, J. and Gambin, T. and Gauci, R. and Mastronuzzi, G. and Monaco, C. and Scicchitano, G.},
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TITLE={Boulder accumulations related to extreme wave events on the eastern coast of Malta},
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JOURNAL={Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences},
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VOLUME={16},
|
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YEAR={2016},
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NUMBER={3},
|
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PAGES={737--756},
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URL={https://nhess.copernicus.org/articles/16/737/2016/},
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DOI={10.5194/nhess-16-737-2016}
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}
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|
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|
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|
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|
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pages={304-316},
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url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383909001628},
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}
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title={A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater},
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author={Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
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keywords={Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
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}
|
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|
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@article{thomas2015,
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title = {Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
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volume = {4},
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year = {2015},
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keywords = {numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
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title={Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
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journal={Aquatic Procedia},
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pages={443-448},
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year={2015},
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note={INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON WATER RESOURCES, COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (ICWRCOE'15)},
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issn={2214-241X},
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doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aqpro.2015.02.059},
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url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214241X15000607},
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author={T. Justin Thomas and G.S. Dwarakish},
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keywords={numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
|
||||
}
|
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|
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@article{mentaschi2013,
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title = {Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
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|
||||
keywords = {Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
|
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title={Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
|
||||
journal={Ocean Modelling},
|
||||
volume={72},
|
||||
pages={53-58},
|
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year={2013},
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issn={1463-5003},
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doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.08.003},
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url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500313001418},
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author={L. Mentaschi and G. Besio and F. Cassola and A. Mazzino},
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keywords={Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
|
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}
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|
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|
||||
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|
||||
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|
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year={2011},
|
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|
||||
journal={Journal of Marine Science and Technology},
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volume={19},
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}
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|
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|
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author = {T.L. Walton},
|
||||
title={Wave reflection from natural beaches},
|
||||
journal={Ocean Engineering},
|
||||
volume={19},
|
||||
number={3},
|
||||
pages={239-258},
|
||||
year={1992},
|
||||
issn={0029-8018},
|
||||
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2},
|
||||
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272},
|
||||
author={T.L. Walton},
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
@article{hughes1993,
|
||||
title = {Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
|
||||
journal = {Coastal Engineering},
|
||||
volume = {20},
|
||||
number = {3},
|
||||
pages = {223-247},
|
||||
year = {1993},
|
||||
issn = {0378-3839},
|
||||
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q},
|
||||
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q},
|
||||
author = {Steven A. Hughes},
|
||||
title={Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
|
||||
journal={Coastal Engineering},
|
||||
volume={20},
|
||||
number={3},
|
||||
pages={223-247},
|
||||
year={1993},
|
||||
issn={0378-3839},
|
||||
doi={https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q},
|
||||
url={https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q},
|
||||
author={Steven A. Hughes},
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
@report{miche1951,
|
||||
title = {Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
|
||||
title={Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
|
||||
de la houle},
|
||||
author = {Miche, M.},
|
||||
year = {1951},
|
||||
publisher = {École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
|
||||
booktitle = {Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
|
||||
author={Miche, M.},
|
||||
year={1951},
|
||||
publisher={École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
|
||||
booktitle={Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
@incollection{goda1977estimation,
|
||||
title={Estimation of incident and reflected waves in random wave experiments},
|
||||
author={Goda, Yoshimi and Suzuki, Yasumasa},
|
||||
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
|
||||
pages={828--845},
|
||||
year={1977}
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
@incollection{morden1977decomposition,
|
||||
title={Decomposition of co-existing random wave energy},
|
||||
author={Morden, Dennis B and Richey, Eugene P and Christensen, Derald R},
|
||||
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
|
||||
pages={846--865},
|
||||
year={1977}
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
@article{thornton1972spectral,
|
||||
title={Spectral resolution of breakwater reflected waves},
|
||||
author={Thornton, Edward B and Calhoun, Ronald J},
|
||||
journal={Journal of the Waterways, Harbors and Coastal Engineering Division},
|
||||
volume={98},
|
||||
number={4},
|
||||
pages={443--460},
|
||||
year={1972},
|
||||
publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
|
|
@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
|
|||
\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book}
|
||||
\documentclass[english, a4paper]{book}
|
||||
\usepackage{cours}
|
||||
\setmainlanguage{english}
|
||||
|
||||
|
|
@ -15,11 +15,6 @@
|
|||
pdfauthor = {Edgar P. Burkhart},
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
\includeonly{
|
||||
chapters/introduction,
|
||||
chapters/literature,
|
||||
}
|
||||
|
||||
\title{\interlight\huge M2 Internship\\{\Huge Bibliography review}\\
|
||||
\vspace{1em}
|
||||
Simulation
|
||||
|
|
@ -31,6 +26,8 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017}
|
|||
\affil{École Normale Supérieure Paris-Saclay}
|
||||
\date{February 2022}
|
||||
|
||||
\setcounter{tocdepth}{3}
|
||||
|
||||
\begin{document}
|
||||
\frontmatter
|
||||
\maketitle
|
||||
|
|
|
|||
Loading…
Reference in New Issue