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Introduction

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12
nature/library.bib
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@ -84,3 +84,15 @@
journal={PhD. Universidade de Cantabria},
year={2015}
}
@article{poncet2022,
title = {In-situ measurements of energetic depth-limited wave loading},
journal = {Applied Ocean Research},
volume = {125},
pages = {103216},
year = {2022},
issn = {0141-1187},
doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2022.103216},
url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0141118722001572},
author = {P.A. Poncet and B. Liquet and B. Larroque and D. D’Amico and D. Sous and S. Abadie},
keywords = {Wave impact, Breaking wave, Loading, Breakwater, Field measurement, Pressure impulse, Multiple linear regression, Wind, Water level},
}

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nature/main.tex
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@ -1,6 +1,5 @@
\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article}
\usepackage{polyglossia}
\usepackage{authblk}
\usepackage{polyglossia} \usepackage{authblk}
\usepackage[sfdefault]{inter}
\setmainlanguage{english}
@ -49,16 +48,27 @@ Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss20
equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis.
Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past.
In this paper, we study such an event. In february 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the
In this paper, we study such an event. On February 28, 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the
Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured
the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block
displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to
the displacement of the 50T concrete block.
% Modeling flow accounting for porous media
Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater.
Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater. Depth-averaged models can be used to study the
transformation of waves on complex bottoms. Studying the hydrodynamic conditions under the surface can be achieved
using smoothed-particles hydrodynamics (SPH) or volume of fluid (VOF) models. SPH models rely on a Lagrangian
representation of the fluid, while VOF models rely on an Eulerian representation. VOF models are generally more mature
for the study of multiphase incompressible flows.
Testing kalliope
In this paper, we use two nested models: a large scale one-dimensionnal model to study the transformation of the wave
from the wave buoy to the proximity of the breakwater, and a VOF model in two vertical dimensions to study the
hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater. The large scale model uses a depth-averaged non-linear non-hydrostatic
model that was already calibrated by \textcite{poncet2022}. The nested model is a VOF model based on volume averaged
Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations and a macroscopic representation of the porous armour of the
breakwater. The model is qualitatively calibrated using photographs from the storm of February 28, 2017.
Results from the nested models are compared to the analytical equations provided by \textcite{nandasena2011}.
\section{Results}