Biblio: Reformat
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\chapter{Literature Review}
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In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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Three sections will be detailled: the separation of incident and reflected
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components from wave measurements, the modelisation of wave impacts on a
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@ -6,22 +7,26 @@ rubble-mound breakwater, and the modelisation of block displacement by wave
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impacts.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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\subsection{Introduction}
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The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
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modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
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boundary will not be correctly generated.
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Several methods exist to extract incident and reflected components in measured
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sea states,
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and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
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and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
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reflected waves, while PUV methods use co-located pressure and velocity
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measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
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sea states, and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods:
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array methods and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely
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on the use of multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the
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incident and reflected waves, while PUV methods use co-located pressure and
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velocity measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the
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signal.
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\subsection{Array methods}
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\subsubsection{2-point methods}
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Array methods were developped as a way to isolate incident and reflected wave
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components using multiple wave records.
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\textcite{goda1977estimation,morden1977decomposition} used two wave gauges
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@ -42,17 +47,19 @@ the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
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reflection process.
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\subsubsection{3-point methods}
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In order to alleviate the limitations from the 2-point methods,
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\textcite{mansard1980measurement} introduced a 3-point method. The addition of
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a supplementary measurement point along with the use of a least-squares method
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most importantly provided less sensitivity to
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noise, non-linear interactions, and probe spacing. The admissible frequency
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range could also be widened. A similar method was proposed by
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\textcite{gaillard1980}. The accuracy of the method for the estimation of
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incident and reflected wave components was once again highlighted, while the
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importance of adequate positioning of the gauges was still noted.
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most importantly provided less sensitivity to noise, non-linear interactions,
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and probe spacing. The admissible frequency range could also be widened. A
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similar method was proposed by \textcite{gaillard1980}. The accuracy of the
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method for the estimation of incident and reflected wave components was once
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again highlighted, while the importance of adequate positioning of the gauges
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was still noted.
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\subsubsection{Time-domain method}
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\textcite{frigaard1995time} presented a time-domain method for reflected and
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incident wave separation. This method, called SIRW method, used discrete
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filters to extract the incident component of an irregular wave field. The
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and bathymetry by considering the influence of refraction.
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\subsubsection{Further improvements}
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Further additions were made to array methods. \textcite{suh2001separation}
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developped a method taking constant current into account to separate incident
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and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
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seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
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\subsubsection{Conclusion}
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Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
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range of situations. Sensibility to noise has been reduced, and the influence
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of shoaling has been considered. Those methods can also be applied to irregular
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non-linear waves.
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However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
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That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
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other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
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available.
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However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used. That means that in
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some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017, other methods are
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needed since only one field measurement location is available.
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\subsection{PUV methods}
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The goal of PUV methods is to decompose the wave field into incident and
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reflected waves using co-located wave elevation and flow velocity measurements
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\parencite{tatavarti1989incoming}. \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming} presented a
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%\textcite{walton1992} applied a separation method based on co-located pressure
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%and velocity measurements on field, studying two natural beaches. This study
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%showed that reflection is not significant on natural beaches. Additionnaly, the
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%method that is used allowed for larger reflected energy than incident energy.
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%showed that reflection is not significant on natural beaches. Additionnaly,
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%the method that is used allowed for larger reflected energy than incident
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%energy.
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Research by \textcite{hughes1993} showed how co-located horizontal velocity and
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vertical velocity (or pressure) sensors can be used to extract incident and
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@ -139,11 +149,10 @@ of the sensors, showing that the time delay between sensors leads to a peak in
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the reflection coefficient at a frequency related to this time delta.
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%%% TODO? %%%
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%\begin{itemize}
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% \item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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%\end{itemize}
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%\begin{itemize} \item \cite{sheremet2002observations}: \end{itemize}
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\subsection{Conclusion}
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Numerous methods have been developped in order to separate incident and
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reflected components from wave measurements. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple, generally aligned, wave gauges, while PUV methods rely on the use of
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@ -162,6 +171,7 @@ breakwater and to separate the incident and reflected wave components from the
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measured data.
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\section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater}
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\subsection{SPH models}
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\subsection{VARANS models}
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