Introduction
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author = {Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
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author = {Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
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keywords = {Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
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keywords = {Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
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}
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}
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@article{thomas2015,
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title = {Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
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journal = {Aquatic Procedia},
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volume = {4},
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pages = {443-448},
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year = {2015},
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note = {INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON WATER RESOURCES, COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (ICWRCOE'15)},
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issn = {2214-241X},
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doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aqpro.2015.02.059},
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url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214241X15000607},
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author = {T. Justin Thomas and G.S. Dwarakish},
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keywords = {numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
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}
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@article{mentaschi2013,
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title = {Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
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journal = {Ocean Modelling},
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volume = {72},
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pages = {53-58},
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year = {2013},
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issn = {1463-5003},
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doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.08.003},
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url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500313001418},
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author = {L. Mentaschi and G. Besio and F. Cassola and A. Mazzino},
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keywords = {Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
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}
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@article{rusu2011,
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author = {Rusu, Eugen},
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year = {2011},
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title = {STRATEGIES IN USING NUMERICAL WAVE MODELS IN OCEAN/COASTAL APPLICATIONS},
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journal = {Journal of Marine Science and Technology},
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volume = {19},
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issue = {1},
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doi = {10.51400/2709-6998.2138},
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}
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@ -5,7 +5,8 @@
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\usepackage[
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\usepackage[
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backend=biber,
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backend=biber,
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sorting=ynt,
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sorting=ynt,
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style=iso-authoryear
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style=iso-authoryear,
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sorting=nyt,
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]{biblatex}
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]{biblatex}
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\bibliography{library}
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\bibliography{library}
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@ -15,7 +16,7 @@
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\begin{document}
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\begin{document}
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\maketitle
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\maketitle
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\section{Bibliography research}
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\section*{Bibliography research}
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\subsection{Extracting components from buoy data}
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\subsection{Extracting components from buoy data}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
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\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
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\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
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@ -52,6 +53,9 @@ losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
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\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
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\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
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\subsection{Modeling}
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\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
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mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
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\subsection{Block displacement}
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\subsection{Block displacement}
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\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
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\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
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@ -68,6 +72,33 @@ barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
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\subsection{Flow in porous media}
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\subsection{Flow in porous media}
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\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
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\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
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\section{Introduction}
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In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
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the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
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photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
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conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
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numerical modeling.
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The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
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the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
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of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
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\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
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This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
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obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
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thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
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However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
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it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
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buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
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especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
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simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
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waves for validation.
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\section{Literature Review}
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In this section, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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\subsection{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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\nocite{*}
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\nocite{*}
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\printbibliography
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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\end{document}
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