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Finalise introduction

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@ -48,9 +48,9 @@ Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss20
equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis. equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis.
Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past. Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past.
In this paper, we study such an event. On February 28, 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the In this paper, we study such an event. On February 28, 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of
Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured the Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore
the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block captured the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block
displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to
the displacement of the 50T concrete block. the displacement of the 50T concrete block.
@ -61,17 +61,21 @@ using smoothed-particles hydrodynamics (SPH) or volume of fluid (VOF) models. SP
representation of the fluid, while VOF models rely on an Eulerian representation. VOF models are generally more mature representation of the fluid, while VOF models rely on an Eulerian representation. VOF models are generally more mature
for the study of multiphase incompressible flows. for the study of multiphase incompressible flows.
In this paper, we use two nested models: a large scale one-dimensionnal model to study the transformation of the wave In this paper, we first use a one-dimensionnal depth-averaged non-linear non-hydrostatic model to verify that the
from the wave buoy to the proximity of the breakwater, and a VOF model in two vertical dimensions to study the signal measured by the wave buoy can be used as an incident wave input for the determination of hydrodynamic conditions
hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater. The large scale model uses SWASH \parencite{zijlema2011} a depth-averaged near the breakwater. For this model, we use a SWASH model \parencite{zijlema2011} already calibrated by
non-linear non-hydrostatic model that was already calibrated by \textcite{poncet2022}. The nested model uses olaFlow \textcite{poncet2022} on a domain reaching 1450m offshore of the breakwater.
\parencite{higuera2015}, a VOF model based on volume averaged Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations which
relies on a macroscopic representation of the porous armour of the breakwater. The model is qualitatively calibrated
using photographs from the storm of February 28, 2017.
Results from the nested models are compared to the analytical equations provided by \textcite{nandasena2011}. Then, we use a nested VOF model in two vertical dimensions that uses the output from the larger scale SWASH model as
initial and boundary conditions to obtain the hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater. The models uses olaFlow
\parencite{higuera2015}, a VOF model based on volume averaged Reynolds averaged Navier-Stokes (VARANS) equations, and
which relies on a macroscopic representation of the porous armour of the breakwater. The model is qualitatively
calibrated using photographs from the storm of February 28, 2017. Results from the nested models are finally compared
to the analytical equations provided by \textcite{nandasena2011}.
\section{Results} \section{Results}
\subsection{Reflection analysis}
\section{Discussion} \section{Discussion}