67 lines
3.4 KiB
TeX
67 lines
3.4 KiB
TeX
\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article}
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\usepackage{polyglossia}
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\usepackage{authblk}
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\usepackage[sfdefault]{inter}
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\setmainlanguage{english}
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\usepackage[
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backend=biber,
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style=iso-authoryear,
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sorting=nyt,
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]{biblatex}
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\bibliography{library}
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\title{Analysis of the displacement of a large concrete block under an extreme wave}
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\author[1]{Edgar P. Burkhart}
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\author[*,1]{Stéphane Abadie}
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\affil[1]{Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA, SIAME, France}
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\affil[*]{Corresponding Author, stephane.abadie@univ-pau.fr}
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\begin{document}
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\maketitle
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\section{Introduction}
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% Displacement of blocks studies
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Displacement of large blocks or boulders by waves is an interesting phenomenon in the study of extreme historical
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coastal events. The existence of block deposits at unusual heights can be a clue to past events such as extreme storms
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or tsunamis. For instance, \textcite{cox2018} studied coastal deposits on the coast of Ireland in relation to the
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storms from winter 2013--2014, and extracted criteria for analysing such deposits. Similarly, \textcite{shah2013}
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found boulder deposits on the mediterranean coast to be evidence of extreme storms in the Little Ice Age.
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% Need for analytical equations
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In order for those studies to be possible, analytical criterias are needed in order to ascertain the cause of the
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displacement of a block. \textcite{nott1997,nott2003} proposed a set of equations that have been widely used for that
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purpose. Those equations rely on an equilibrium relation between the lift force produced by a wave and restraining
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forces depending on the initial setting of the block, allowing to extract a minimal flow velocity necessary for
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movement initiation. A parametrisation of waves depending on their source is also used to provide minimal wave heights
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depending on the type of scenario --- wave or tsunami. Those equations were later revised by \textcite{nandasena2011},
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as they were found to be partially incorrect. A revised formulation based on the same considerations was provided.
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The assumptions on which \citeauthor{nott2003, nandasena2011} are based were then critisized by \textcite{weiss2015}.
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In fact, according to them, the initiation of movement is not sufficient to guarantee block displacement.
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\textcite{weiss2015} highlights the importance of the time dependency on block displacement. A method is proposed that
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allows to find the wave amplitude that lead to block displacement.
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% Lack of observations -> observation
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Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss2015}, all the proposed analytical
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equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis.
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Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past.
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In this paper, we study such an event. In february 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the
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Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured
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the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block
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displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to
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the displacement of the 50T concrete block.
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% Modeling flow accounting for porous media
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Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater.
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\section{Results}
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\section{Discussion}
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\section{Methods}
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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