81 lines
3.1 KiB
TeX
81 lines
3.1 KiB
TeX
\chapter{Literature Review}
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In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
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modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
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boundary will not be correctly generated.
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Several methods exist to extract incident and reflected components in measured
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seastates,
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and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
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and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
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reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
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measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
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\subsection{Array methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate
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incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3
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positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation.
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\parencite{gaillard1980}
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\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards
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and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with
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small filters. SIRW Method, realtime.
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\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time},
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arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection
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coefficients, larger for low reflection.
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\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on
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a known current.
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\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced
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bias in array methods.
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\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components
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for non-linear waves.
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\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves.
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{PUV methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined
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with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for
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reflectivities over 0.3.
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\item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
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\item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field
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measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and
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outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise.
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\item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories:
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quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
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\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
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reflected energy than incident energy.
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\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
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horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of
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irregular non breaking waves.
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\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
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noise-induced bias.
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\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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\end{itemize}
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\section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater}
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\subsection{SPH models}
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\subsection{VARANS models}
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\section{Modeling block displacement}
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