internship/biblio/library.bib

@misc{olaFlow,
	author={Higuera, P.},
	title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].},
	year=2017,
	doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013},
	url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013}
}

@report{amir,
	author={Amir Parvin},
	title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action},
	year={2020},
}

@article{cox2018extraordinary,
	title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits},
	author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter},
	journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
	volume={177},
	pages={623--636},
	year={2018},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{shah2013coastal,
	title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age},
	author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A},
	journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie},
	volume={57},
	number={Suppl 4},
	pages={181--199},
	year={2013}
}

@conference{abadie,
	title={Large concrete block displacement under extreme wave: analysis of the 2/28/2017 event},
	author={Amir Parvin and Volker Roeber and Pierre-Antoine Poncet and D. Sous and M. Mengaillou and Stéphane Abadie},
	booktitle={Seminaire technique EZPONDA},
	year={2019},
}

@phdthesis{poncet2021characterization,
	title={Characterization of wave impact loading on structures at full scale: field experiment, statistical analysis and 3D advanced numerical modeling},
	author={Poncet, Pierre-Antoine},
	year={2021},
	school={Pau},
	chapter={4},
}

@article{nott2003waves,
	title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting},
	author={Nott, Jonathan},
	journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters},
	volume={210},
	number={1-2},
	pages={269--276},
	year={2003},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{zijlema2011swash,
	title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters},
	author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={58},
	number={10},
	pages={992--1012},
	year={2011},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@incollection{mansard1980measurement,
	title={The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least squares method},
	author={Mansard, Etienne PD and Funke, ER},
	booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1980},
	pages={154--172},
	year={1980}
}

@article{suh2001separation,
	title={Separation of incident and reflected waves in wave--current flumes},
	author={Suh, Kyung Doug and Park, Woo Sun and Park, Beom Seok},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={43},
	number={3-4},
	pages={149--159},
	year={2001},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{frigaard1995time,
	title={A time-domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves},
	author={Frigaard, Peter and Brorsen, Michael},
	journal={Coastal engineering},
	volume={24},
	number={3-4},
	pages={205--215},
	year={1995},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{baldock1999separation,
	title={Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry},
	author={Baldock, TE and Simmonds, DJ},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={38},
	number={3},
	pages={167--176},
	year={1999},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{roge2019estimation,
	title={Estimation of incident and reflected wave trains in highly nonlinear two-dimensional irregular waves},
	author={R{\o}ge Eldrup, Mads and Lykke Andersen, Thomas},
	journal={Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering},
	volume={145},
	number={1},
	pages={04018038},
	year={2019},
	publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}

@article{andersen2017estimation,
	title={Estimation of incident and reflected components in highly nonlinear regular waves},
	author={Andersen, Thomas Lykke and Eldrup, Mads R{\o}ge and Frigaard, Peter},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={119},
	pages={51--64},
	year={2017},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{inch2016accurate,
	title={Accurate estimation of wave reflection on a high energy, dissipative beach},
	author={Inch, Kris and Davidson, Mark and Masselink, Gerd and Russell, Paul},
	journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
	number={75 (10075)},
	pages={877--881},
	year={2016},
	publisher={Allen Press}
}

@incollection{pedersen2007resolving,
	title={Resolving transformed wave directions near coastal structures},
	author={Pedersen, Torstein and Goldberg, Judah and Lohrmann, Atle and Siegel, Eric},
	booktitle={Coastal Engineering 2006: (In 5 Volumes)},
	pages={4362--4373},
	year={2007},
	publisher={World Scientific}
}

@article{sobey1999locally,
	title={A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements},
	author={Sobey, Rodney J and Hughes, Steven A},
	journal={Coastal engineering},
	volume={36},
	number={1},
	pages={17--36},
	year={1999},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{davidson1996new,
	title={A new non-dimensional number for the analysis of wave reflection from rubble mound breakwaters},
	author={Davidson, MA and Bird, PAD and Bullock, GN and Huntley, DA},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={28},
	number={1-4},
	pages={93--120},
	year={1996},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{poncet2020wave,
	title={WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A STEEP COMPOSITE BREAKWATER, IN-SITU EXPERIMENT RESULTS},
	author={Poncet, PIerre-Antoine and Sous, Damien and Abadie, Stephane},
	journal={Coastal Engineering Proceedings},
	number={36v},
	pages={27--27},
	year={2020}
}

@article{larroque2018situ,
	title={In-situ measurements of wave impact pressure on a composite breakwater: preliminary results},
	author={Larroque, Benoit and Arnould, Philippe and Luthon, Franck and Poncet, Pierre-Antoine and Rahali, A and Abadie, St{\'e}phane},
	journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
	number={85 (10085)},
	pages={1086--1090},
	year={2018},
	publisher={Allen Press}
}

@article{sheremet2002observations,
	title={Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components},
	author={Sheremet, A and Guza, RT and Elgar, Steve and Herbers, THC},
	journal={Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans},
	volume={107},
	number={C8},
	pages={10--1},
	year={2002},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@incollection{guza1977resonant,
	title={Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach},
	author={Guza, Robert T and Bowen, Anthony J},
	booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
	pages={560--579},
	year={1977}
}

@article{huntley1999use,
	title={Use of collocated sensors to measure coastal wave reflection},
	author={Huntley, David A and Simmonds, David and Tatavarti, Rao},
	journal={Journal of waterway, port, coastal, and ocean engineering},
	volume={125},
	number={1},
	pages={46--52},
	year={1999},
	publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}

@incollection{tatavarti1989incoming,
	title={Incoming and outgoing wave interactions on beaches},
	author={Tatavarti, Rao VSN and Huntley, David A and Bowen, Anthony J},
	booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1988},
	pages={136--150},
	year={1989}
}

@article{higuera2015application,
	title={Application of computational fluid dynamics to wave action on structures},
	author={Higuera, P},
	journal={PhD. Universidade de Cantabria},
	year={2015}
}

@inproceedings{bogdanov2011direct,
	title={Direct pore-scale modeling of two-phase flow through natural media},
	author={Bogdanov, II and Guerton, F and Kpahou, J and Kamp, AM},
	booktitle={Proceedings of the 2011 COMSOL Conference in Stuttgart; http://www. comsol. com/paper/download/83497/bogdanov\_paper. pdf},
	year={2011}
}

@article{del2011three,
	title={Three-dimensional interaction of water waves with maritime structures},
	author={del Jesus, M},
	journal={University of Cantabria (Ph. D. thesis)},
	year={2011}
}

@article{altomare2014numerical,
	title={Numerical modelling of armour block sea breakwater with smoothed particle hydrodynamics},
	author={Altomare, Corrado and Crespo, Alejandro JC and Rogers, BD and Dominguez, JM and Gironella, X and G{\'o}mez-Gesteira, M},
	journal={Computers \& Structures},
	volume={130},
	pages={34--45},
	year={2014},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{vanneste20152d,
	title={2D numerical simulation of large-scale physical model tests of wave interaction with a rubble-mound breakwater},
	author={Vanneste, Dieter and Troch, Peter},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={103},
	pages={22--41},
	year={2015},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{sumer2000experimental,
	title={Experimental study of 2D scour and its protection at a rubble-mound breakwater},
	author={Sumer, B Mutlu and Freds{\o}e, J{\o}rgen},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={40},
	number={1},
	pages={59--87},
	year={2000},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{kim2005neural,
	title={Neural network for design and reliability analysis of rubble mound breakwaters},
	author={Kim, Dong Hyawn and Park, Woo Sun},
	journal={Ocean engineering},
	volume={32},
	number={11-12},
	pages={1332--1349},
	year={2005},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@incollection{troch1999development,
	title={Development of two-dimensional numerical wave flume for wave interaction with rubble mound breakwaters},
	author={Troch, Peter and De Rouck, Julien},
	booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1998},
	pages={1638--1649},
	year={1999}
}

@article{koley2020numerical,
	title={Numerical and experimental modeling of water wave interaction with rubble mound offshore porous breakwaters},
	author={Koley, Santanu and Panduranga, Kottala and Almashan, Nourah and Neelamani, Subramaniam and Al-Ragum, Alanoud},
	journal={Ocean Engineering},
	volume={218},
	pages={108218},
	year={2020},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{losada1979joint,
	title={The joint effect of the wave height and period on the stability of rubble mound breakwaters using Iribarren's number},
	author={Losada, Miguel A and Gimenez-Curto, Luis A},
	journal={Coastal Engineering},
	volume={3},
	pages={77--96},
	year={1979},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{lara2008wave,
	title={Wave interaction with low-mound breakwaters using a RANS model},
	author={Lara, JL and Losada, IJ and Guanche, R},
	journal={Ocean engineering},
	volume={35},
	number={13},
	pages={1388--1400},
	year={2008},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@inproceedings{troch1997vofbreak2,
	title={VOFbreak2, a numerical model for simulation of wave interaction with rubble mound breakwater},
	author={Troch, Peter},
	booktitle={Proceedings of the 1997 27th Congress of the International Association of Hydraulic Research, IAHR. Part D},
	year={1997}
}

@article{losada2008numerical,
	title={Numerical analysis of wave overtopping of rubble mound breakwaters},
	author={Losada, Inigo J and Lara, Javier L and Guanche, Raul and Gonzalez-Ondina, Jose M},
	journal={Coastal engineering},
	volume={55},
	number={1},
	pages={47--62},
	year={2008},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{erdmann2018boulder,
	title={Boulder transport by storms--Extreme-waves in the coastal zone of the Irish west coast},
	author={Erdmann, Wibke and Kelletat, Dieter and Scheffers, Anja},
	journal={Marine Geology},
	volume={399},
	pages={1--13},
	year={2018},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{may2015block,
	title={Block and boulder transport in eastern Samar (Philippines) during Supertyphoon Haiyan},
	author={May, SM and Engel, M and Brill, D and Cuadra, C and Lagmay, AMF and Santiago, J and Suarez, JK and Reyes, M and Br{\"u}ckner, H},
	journal={Earth Surface Dynamics},
	volume={3},
	number={4},
	pages={543--558},
	year={2015},
	publisher={Copernicus GmbH}
}

@article{weiss2012mystery,
	title={The mystery of boulders moved by tsunamis and storms},
	author={Weiss, Robert},
	journal={Marine Geology},
	volume={295},
	pages={28--33},
	year={2012},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{weiss2015untangling,
	title={Untangling boulder dislodgement in storms and tsunamis: Is it possible with simple theories?},
	author={Weiss, R and Diplas, P},
	journal={Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems},
	volume={16},
	number={3},
	pages={890--898},
	year={2015},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@article{zainali2015boulder,
	title={Boulder dislodgement and transport by solitary waves: Insights from three-dimensional numerical simulations},
	author={Zainali, Amir and Weiss, Robert},
	journal={Geophysical Research Letters},
	volume={42},
	number={11},
	pages={4490--4497},
	year={2015},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@phdthesis{zainali2016high,
	title={High-fidelity numerical simulation of shallow water waves},
	author={Zainali, Amir},
	year={2016},
	school={Virginia Tech}
}

@article{nandasena2011reassessment,
	title={Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations: Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms, tsunamis)},
	author={Nandasena, NAK and Paris, Rapha{\"e}l and Tanaka, Norio},
	journal={Marine Geology},
	volume={281},
	number={1-4},
	pages={70--84},
	year={2011},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{nandasena2013boulder,
	title={Boulder transport by high energy: Numerical model-fitting experimental observations},
	author={Nandasena, NAK and Tanaka, Norio},
	journal={Ocean Engineering},
	volume={57},
	pages={163--179},
	year={2013},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{martinez2011quasi,
	title={Quasi-three dimensional two-phase debris flow model accounting for boulder transport},
	author={Martinez, CE and Miralles-Wilhelm, F and Garcia Martinez, R},
	journal={Italian Journal of Engineering Geology and Environment-Book},
	volume={3},
	pages={457--466},
	year={2011}
}

@article{kennedy2016observations,
	title={Observations and modeling of coastal boulder transport and loading during Super Typhoon Haiyan},
	author={Kennedy, Andrew B and Mori, Nobuhito and Zhang, Yao and Yasuda, Tomohiro and Chen, Shen-En and Tajima, Yoshimitsu and Pecor, William and Toride, Kinya},
	journal={Coastal Engineering Journal},
	volume={58},
	number={01},
	pages={1640004},
	year={2016},
	publisher={World Scientific}
}

@article{lodhi2020role,
	title={The role of hydrodynamic impact force in subaerial boulder transport by tsunami—Experimental evidence and revision of boulder transport equation},
	author={Lodhi, Hira A and Hasan, Haider and Nandasena, NAK},
	journal={Sedimentary Geology},
	volume={408},
	pages={105745},
	year={2020},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{oetjen2021experiments,
	title={Experiments on tsunami induced boulder transport--A review},
	author={Oetjen, Jan and Engel, Max and Sch{\"u}ttrumpf, Holger},
	journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
	volume={220},
	pages={103714},
	year={2021},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{oetjen2020significance,
	title={Significance of boulder shape, shoreline configuration and pre-transport setting for the transport of boulders by tsunamis},
	author={Oetjen, Jan and Engel, Max and Pudasaini, Shiva P and Schuettrumpf, Holger},
	journal={Earth Surface Processes and Landforms},
	volume={45},
	number={9},
	pages={2118--2133},
	year={2020},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@article{nandasena2011numerical,
	title={Numerical assessment of boulder transport by the 2004 Indian ocean tsunami in Lhok Nga, West Banda Aceh (Sumatra, Indonesia)},
	author={Nandasena, NAK and Paris, Rapha{\"e}l and Tanaka, Norio},
	journal={Computers \& geosciences},
	volume={37},
	number={9},
	pages={1391--1399},
	year={2011},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{weiss2017toward,
	title={Toward a new paradigm for boulder dislodgement during storms},
	author={Weiss, Robert and Sheremet, Alex},
	journal={Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems},
	volume={18},
	number={7},
	pages={2717--2726},
	year={2017},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@article{sheremet2016triads,
	title={TRIADS: A phase-resolving model for nonlinear shoaling of directional wave spectra},
	author={Sheremet, Alex and Davis, Justin R and Tian, Miao and Hanson, Jeffrey L and Hathaway, Kent K},
	journal={Ocean Modelling},
	volume={99},
	pages={60--74},
	year={2016},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{imamura2008numerical,
	title={A numerical model for the transport of a boulder by tsunami},
	author={Imamura, Fumihiko and Goto, Kazuhisa and Ohkubo, Shigeki},
	journal={Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans},
	volume={113},
	number={C1},
	year={2008},
	publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@article{barbano2010large,
	title={Large boulders along the south-eastern Ionian coast of Sicily: storm or tsunami deposits?},
	author={Barbano, MS and Pirrotta, C and Gerardi, F},
	journal={Marine Geology},
	volume={275},
	number={1-4},
	pages={140--154},
	year={2010},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{PARIS20111,
	title = {Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
	journal = {Marine Geology},
	volume = {283},
	number = {1},
	pages = {1-11},
	year = {2011},
	note = {Special Issue on Boulders as a signature of storms on rock coasts},
	issn = {0025-3227},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.margeo.2011.03.016},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S002532271100079X},
	author = {Raphaël Paris and Larissa A. Naylor and Wayne J. Stephenson},
}

@article{biolchi2016,
	AUTHOR = {Biolchi, S. and Furlani, S. and Antonioli, F. and Baldassini, N. and Causon Deguara, J. and Devoto, S. and Di Stefano, A. and Evans, J. and Gambin, T. and Gauci, R. and Mastronuzzi, G. and Monaco, C. and Scicchitano, G.},
	TITLE = {Boulder accumulations related to extreme wave events on the eastern coast of Malta},
	JOURNAL = {Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences},
	VOLUME = {16},
	YEAR = {2016},
	NUMBER = {3},
	PAGES = {737--756},
	URL = {https://nhess.copernicus.org/articles/16/737/2016/},
	DOI = {10.5194/nhess-16-737-2016}
}

@article{SHAO2010304,
	title = {Incompressible SPH flow model for wave interactions with porous media},
	journal = {Coastal Engineering},
	volume = {57},
	number = {3},
	pages = {304-316},
	year = {2010},
	issn = {0378-3839},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2009.10.012},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383909001628},
	author = {Songdong Shao},
	keywords = {ISPH, Porous flow, Wave damping, Breakwater},
}

@article{hsu2002,
	title = {A numerical model for wave motions and turbulence flows in front of a composite breakwater},
	journal = {Coastal Engineering},
	volume = {46},
	number = {1},
	pages = {25-50},
	year = {2002},
	issn = {0378-3839},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/S0378-3839(02)00045-5},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378383902000455},
	author = {Tian-Jian Hsu and Tsutomu Sakakiyama and Philip L.-F. Liu},
	keywords = {Composite breakwater, Wave forces, Breaking wave, Turbulence, Pore pressure, Porous media, Numerical modelling},
}

@article{thomas2015,
	title = {Numerical Wave Modelling – A Review},
	journal = {Aquatic Procedia},
	volume = {4},
	pages = {443-448},
	year = {2015},
	note = {INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE ON WATER RESOURCES, COASTAL AND OCEAN ENGINEERING (ICWRCOE'15)},
	issn = {2214-241X},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.aqpro.2015.02.059},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214241X15000607},
	author = {T. Justin Thomas and G.S. Dwarakish},
	keywords = {numerical wave modelling, ocean engineering, wave forecasting, wave hindcasting, physical oceanography},
}

@article{mentaschi2013,
	title = {Problems in RMSE-based wave model validations},
	journal = {Ocean Modelling},
	volume = {72},
	pages = {53-58},
	year = {2013},
	issn = {1463-5003},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ocemod.2013.08.003},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1463500313001418},
	author = {L. Mentaschi and G. Besio and F. Cassola and A. Mazzino},
	keywords = {Model validation, RMSE, Scatter index, WAVEWATCH III®, Mediterranean Sea},
}

@article{rusu2011,
	author = {Rusu, Eugen},
	year = {2011},
	title = {STRATEGIES IN USING NUMERICAL WAVE MODELS IN OCEAN/COASTAL APPLICATIONS},
	journal = {Journal of Marine Science and Technology},
	volume = {19},
	issue = {1},
	doi = {10.51400/2709-6998.2138},
}

@inbook{gaillard1980,
	author = {Pierre Gaillard  and Michel Gauthier  and Forrest Holly },
	title = {Method of Analysis of Random Wave Experiments with Reflecting Coastal Structures},
	year = {1980},
	booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1980},
	pages = {204-220},
	doi = {10.1061/9780872622647.011},
	URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
	eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
}

@inbook{guza1984,
	author = {R. T. Guza  and E. B. Thornton  and R. A. Holman },
	title = {Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches},
	booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1984},
	chapter = {},
	year = {1984},
	pages = {708-723},
	doi = {10.1061/9780872624382.049},
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	eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872624382.049},
}

@inbook{kubota1990,
	author = {Susumu Kubota  and Masaru Mizuguchi  and Mitsuo Takezawa },
	title = {Reflection from Swash Zone on Natural Beaches},
	booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1990},
	year = {1990},
	chapter = {},
	pages = {570-583},
	doi = {10.1061/9780872627765.046},
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}

@article{walton1992,
	title = {Wave reflection from natural beaches},
	journal = {Ocean Engineering},
	volume = {19},
	number = {3},
	pages = {239-258},
	year = {1992},
	issn = {0029-8018},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272},
	author = {T.L. Walton},
}

@article{hughes1993,
	title = {Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
	journal = {Coastal Engineering},
	volume = {20},
	number = {3},
	pages = {223-247},
	year = {1993},
	issn = {0378-3839},
	doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q},
	url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q},
	author = {Steven A. Hughes},
}

@report{miche1951,
	title = {Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
		de la houle},
	author = {Miche, M.},
	year = {1951},
	publisher = {École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
	booktitle = {Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
}