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\documentclass[english, a4paper, 12pt]{article}
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\usepackage{cours}
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\setmainlanguage{english}
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\usepackage[
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backend=biber,
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sorting=ynt,
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style=authoryear
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]{biblatex}
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\bibliography{library}
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\title{OpenFoam Project\\\huge Simulation of the breaking wave flow at the
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Artha breakwater}
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\author{Edgar P. Burkhart}
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\begin{document}
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\maketitle
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\tableofcontents
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\section{Introduction}
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In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave at
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the Artha breakwater, in the entrance of the bay of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This
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event was captured by a photographer, and an initial study (\cite{amir})
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allowed to highlight the circumstances which caused the block displacement.
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The phenomenon of block displacement by waves has been studied in the past with
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multiple approaches (\cite{cox2018extraordinary,shah2013coastal}). In 2014, a
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study of displaced blocks on the coast of Ireland was conducted by
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\cite{cox2018extraordinary}. This study highlighted a strong correlation
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between the mass of displaced boulders and coastal topography. Notably, an
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inverse exponential relation between boulder mass and elevation was
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established. According to the presentation by \cite{abadie}, the block that was
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displaced at the Artha breakwater in 2017 falls in accordance with these
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results, as shown in \autoref{fig:compcox}.
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\begin{figure}
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\centering
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\begin{tikzpicture}
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\begin{semilogyaxis}[
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xmin=0,
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xmax=25,
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ymin=0.1,
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ymax=1000,
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domain=0:25,
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grid=both,
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legend entries={\cite{cox2018extraordinary}, Artha 2017},
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xlabel={Elevation (\si{\m})},
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ylabel={Mass (\si{\tonne})},
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]
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\addplot[no markers] {exp(5.01-0.15*x)};
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\addplot[only marks] coordinates {
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(8.2,50)
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};
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\draw [dashed,help lines] (axis cs:0,50) -| (axis cs:8.2,0.1);
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\end{semilogyaxis}
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\end{tikzpicture}
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\caption{Comparison between the correlation found by
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\cite{cox2018extraordinary} and the block displaced at the Artha breakwater
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in 2017 (\SI{50}{\tonne}, \SI{8.2}{\m}).}\label{fig:compcox}
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\end{figure}
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\cite{shah2013coastal} studied coastal boulders in Martigues, on the french
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mediterranean coast. Similarly to \cite{cox2018extraordinary}, displaced
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boulders were studied regarding their mass and position on the shore.
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The study concludes that those blocks are evidence of the risks associated with
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high energy waves on the mediterranean coast, and links the displaced boulders
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to extreme storms, but does not exclude the possibility of tsunamis.
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Other studies focus on the theoretical aspects of bock displacement by water
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flow. \cite{nott2003waves} proposed a set of equations for determining the
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minimum wave height that would lead to displacement of a boulder in different
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scenarios. This study highlights that the environment of the boulder before
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transport is a major factor in calculating that minimum wave height, as well
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as water depth at the boulder initial location.
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The goal of this project will be to perform a sensibility study on the
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parameters representing the porosity of the shell of the artha breakwater in a
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two-dimensionnal olaFlow (\cite{olaFlow}) simulation of wave impact on the
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breakwater.
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Studies on the transformation of waves over the Artha breakwater have already
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been conducted. \cite{poncet2021characterization} has performed such a study
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using the SWASH (\cite{zijlema2011swash}) model. The results from a calibration
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study on the porosity of the breakwater shell yielded a porosity of \num{0.25}
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for the lowest root mean squared error compared to experimental values.
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This value is unexpectedely low, and a porosity of \num{0.40} was used in the
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following computations, as it represents the expected porosity of such a
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block armour.
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\section{Methods}
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\section{Results}
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\section{Conclusion}
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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