internship/biblio/library.bib

@misc{olaFlow,
	author={Higuera, P.},
	title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].},
	year=2017,
	doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013},
	url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013}
}

@report{amir,
	author={Amir Parvin},
	title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action},
	year={2020},
}

@article{cox2018extraordinary,
	title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits},
	author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter},
	journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
	volume={177},
	pages={623--636},
	year={2018},
	publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{shah2013coastal,
	title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age},
	author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A},
	journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie},
	volume={57},
	number={Suppl 4},
	pages={181--199},
	year={2013}
}

@conference{abadie,
	title={Large concrete block displacement under extreme wave: analysis of the 2/28/2017 event},
	author={Amir Parvin and Volker Roeber and Pierre-Antoine Poncet and D. Sous and M. Mengaillou and Stéphane Abadie},
	booktitle={Seminaire technique EZPONDA},
	year={2019},
}

@phdthesis{poncet2021characterization,
	title={Characterization of wave impact loading on structures at full scale: field experiment, statistical analysis and 3D advanced numerical modeling},
	author={Poncet, Pierre-Antoine},
	year={2021},
	school={Pau},
	chapter={4},
}

@article{nott2003waves,
  title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting},
  author={Nott, Jonathan},
  journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters},
  volume={210},
  number={1-2},
  pages={269--276},
  year={2003},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{zijlema2011swash,
  title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters},
  author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter},
  journal={Coastal Engineering},
  volume={58},
  number={10},
  pages={992--1012},
  year={2011},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@incollection{mansard1980measurement,
  title={The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least squares method},
  author={Mansard, Etienne PD and Funke, ER},
  booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1980},
  pages={154--172},
  year={1980}
}

@article{suh2001separation,
  title={Separation of incident and reflected waves in wave--current flumes},
  author={Suh, Kyung Doug and Park, Woo Sun and Park, Beom Seok},
  journal={Coastal Engineering},
  volume={43},
  number={3-4},
  pages={149--159},
  year={2001},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{frigaard1995time,
  title={A time-domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves},
  author={Frigaard, Peter and Brorsen, Michael},
  journal={Coastal engineering},
  volume={24},
  number={3-4},
  pages={205--215},
  year={1995},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{baldock1999separation,
  title={Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry},
  author={Baldock, TE and Simmonds, DJ},
  journal={Coastal Engineering},
  volume={38},
  number={3},
  pages={167--176},
  year={1999},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{roge2019estimation,
  title={Estimation of incident and reflected wave trains in highly nonlinear two-dimensional irregular waves},
  author={R{\o}ge Eldrup, Mads and Lykke Andersen, Thomas},
  journal={Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering},
  volume={145},
  number={1},
  pages={04018038},
  year={2019},
  publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}

@article{andersen2017estimation,
  title={Estimation of incident and reflected components in highly nonlinear regular waves},
  author={Andersen, Thomas Lykke and Eldrup, Mads R{\o}ge and Frigaard, Peter},
  journal={Coastal Engineering},
  volume={119},
  pages={51--64},
  year={2017},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{inch2016accurate,
  title={Accurate estimation of wave reflection on a high energy, dissipative beach},
  author={Inch, Kris and Davidson, Mark and Masselink, Gerd and Russell, Paul},
  journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
  number={75 (10075)},
  pages={877--881},
  year={2016},
  publisher={Allen Press}
}

@incollection{pedersen2007resolving,
  title={Resolving transformed wave directions near coastal structures},
  author={Pedersen, Torstein and Goldberg, Judah and Lohrmann, Atle and Siegel, Eric},
  booktitle={Coastal Engineering 2006: (In 5 Volumes)},
  pages={4362--4373},
  year={2007},
  publisher={World Scientific}
}

@article{sobey1999locally,
  title={A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements},
  author={Sobey, Rodney J and Hughes, Steven A},
  journal={Coastal engineering},
  volume={36},
  number={1},
  pages={17--36},
  year={1999},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{davidson1996new,
  title={A new non-dimensional number for the analysis of wave reflection from rubble mound breakwaters},
  author={Davidson, MA and Bird, PAD and Bullock, GN and Huntley, DA},
  journal={Coastal Engineering},
  volume={28},
  number={1-4},
  pages={93--120},
  year={1996},
  publisher={Elsevier}
}

@article{poncet2020wave,
  title={WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A STEEP COMPOSITE BREAKWATER, IN-SITU EXPERIMENT RESULTS},
  author={Poncet, PIerre-Antoine and Sous, Damien and Abadie, Stephane},
  journal={Coastal Engineering Proceedings},
  number={36v},
  pages={27--27},
  year={2020}
}

@article{larroque2018situ,
  title={In-situ measurements of wave impact pressure on a composite breakwater: preliminary results},
  author={Larroque, Benoit and Arnould, Philippe and Luthon, Franck and Poncet, Pierre-Antoine and Rahali, A and Abadie, St{\'e}phane},
  journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
  number={85 (10085)},
  pages={1086--1090},
  year={2018},
  publisher={Allen Press}
}

@article{sheremet2002observations,
  title={Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components},
  author={Sheremet, A and Guza, RT and Elgar, Steve and Herbers, THC},
  journal={Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans},
  volume={107},
  number={C8},
  pages={10--1},
  year={2002},
  publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}

@incollection{guza1977resonant,
  title={Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach},
  author={Guza, Robert T and Bowen, Anthony J},
  booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
  pages={560--579},
  year={1977}
}