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@misc{olaFlow,
author={Higuera, P.},
title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].},
year=2017,
doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013},
url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013}
}
@report{amir,
author={Amir Parvin},
title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action},
year={2020},
}
@article{cox2018extraordinary,
title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits},
author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter},
journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
volume={177},
pages={623--636},
year={2018},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{shah2013coastal,
title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age},
author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A},
journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie},
volume={57},
number={Suppl 4},
pages={181--199},
year={2013}
}
@conference{abadie,
title={Large concrete block displacement under extreme wave: analysis of the 2/28/2017 event},
author={Amir Parvin and Volker Roeber and Pierre-Antoine Poncet and D. Sous and M. Mengaillou and Stéphane Abadie},
booktitle={Seminaire technique EZPONDA},
year={2019},
}
@phdthesis{poncet2021characterization,
title={Characterization of wave impact loading on structures at full scale: field experiment, statistical analysis and 3D advanced numerical modeling},
author={Poncet, Pierre-Antoine},
year={2021},
school={Pau},
chapter={4},
}
@article{nott2003waves,
title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting},
author={Nott, Jonathan},
journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters},
volume={210},
number={1-2},
pages={269--276},
year={2003},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{zijlema2011swash,
title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters},
author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={58},
number={10},
pages={992--1012},
year={2011},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@incollection{mansard1980measurement,
title={The measurement of incident and reflected spectra using a least squares method},
author={Mansard, Etienne PD and Funke, ER},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1980},
pages={154--172},
year={1980}
}
@article{suh2001separation,
title={Separation of incident and reflected waves in wave--current flumes},
author={Suh, Kyung Doug and Park, Woo Sun and Park, Beom Seok},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={43},
number={3-4},
pages={149--159},
year={2001},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{frigaard1995time,
title={A time-domain method for separating incident and reflected irregular waves},
author={Frigaard, Peter and Brorsen, Michael},
journal={Coastal engineering},
volume={24},
number={3-4},
pages={205--215},
year={1995},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{baldock1999separation,
title={Separation of incident and reflected waves over sloping bathymetry},
author={Baldock, TE and Simmonds, DJ},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={38},
number={3},
pages={167--176},
year={1999},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{roge2019estimation,
title={Estimation of incident and reflected wave trains in highly nonlinear two-dimensional irregular waves},
author={R{\o}ge Eldrup, Mads and Lykke Andersen, Thomas},
journal={Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering},
volume={145},
number={1},
pages={04018038},
year={2019},
publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
}
@article{andersen2017estimation,
title={Estimation of incident and reflected components in highly nonlinear regular waves},
author={Andersen, Thomas Lykke and Eldrup, Mads R{\o}ge and Frigaard, Peter},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={119},
pages={51--64},
year={2017},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{inch2016accurate,
title={Accurate estimation of wave reflection on a high energy, dissipative beach},
author={Inch, Kris and Davidson, Mark and Masselink, Gerd and Russell, Paul},
journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
number={75 (10075)},
pages={877--881},
year={2016},
publisher={Allen Press}
}
@incollection{pedersen2007resolving,
title={Resolving transformed wave directions near coastal structures},
author={Pedersen, Torstein and Goldberg, Judah and Lohrmann, Atle and Siegel, Eric},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 2006: (In 5 Volumes)},
pages={4362--4373},
year={2007},
publisher={World Scientific}
}
@article{sobey1999locally,
title={A locally nonlinear interpretation of PUV measurements},
author={Sobey, Rodney J and Hughes, Steven A},
journal={Coastal engineering},
volume={36},
number={1},
pages={17--36},
year={1999},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{davidson1996new,
title={A new non-dimensional number for the analysis of wave reflection from rubble mound breakwaters},
author={Davidson, MA and Bird, PAD and Bullock, GN and Huntley, DA},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={28},
number={1-4},
pages={93--120},
year={1996},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{poncet2020wave,
title={WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER A STEEP COMPOSITE BREAKWATER, IN-SITU EXPERIMENT RESULTS},
author={Poncet, PIerre-Antoine and Sous, Damien and Abadie, Stephane},
journal={Coastal Engineering Proceedings},
number={36v},
pages={27--27},
year={2020}
}
@article{larroque2018situ,
title={In-situ measurements of wave impact pressure on a composite breakwater: preliminary results},
author={Larroque, Benoit and Arnould, Philippe and Luthon, Franck and Poncet, Pierre-Antoine and Rahali, A and Abadie, St{\'e}phane},
journal={Journal of Coastal Research},
number={85 (10085)},
pages={1086--1090},
year={2018},
publisher={Allen Press}
}
@article{sheremet2002observations,
title={Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components},
author={Sheremet, A and Guza, RT and Elgar, Steve and Herbers, THC},
journal={Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans},
volume={107},
number={C8},
pages={10--1},
year={2002},
publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}
@incollection{guza1977resonant,
title={Resonant interactions for waves breaking on a beach},
author={Guza, Robert T and Bowen, Anthony J},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1976},
pages={560--579},
year={1977}
}