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Biblio: separating incident and reflected

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biblio/chapters/literature.tex
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@ -1,8 +1,12 @@
\chapter{Literature Review} \chapter{Literature Review}
In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed. In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
Three sections will be detailled: the separation of incident and reflected
components from wave measurements, the modelisation of wave impacts on a
rubble-mound breakwater, and the modelisation of block displacement by wave
impacts.
\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data} \section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
\subsection{Introduction}
The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
@ -13,7 +17,7 @@ sea states,
and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity reflected waves, while PUV methods use co-located pressure and velocity
measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal. measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
\subsection{Array methods} \subsection{Array methods}
@ -87,39 +91,75 @@ seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
\subsubsection{Conclusion} \subsubsection{Conclusion}
Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
range of situations. However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used. range of situations. Sensibility to noise has been reduced, and the influence
of shoaling has been considered. Those methods can also be applied to irregular
non-linear waves.
However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017, That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
available. available.
\subsection{PUV methods} \subsection{PUV methods}
The goal of PUV methods is to decompose the wave field into incident and
reflected waves using co-located wave elevation and flow velocity measurements
\parencite{tatavarti1989incoming}. \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming} presented a
detailled analysis of separation of incoming and outging waves using co-located
velocity and wave height sensors. Their method allows to obtain the reflection
coefficient relative to frequency, as well as to separate incident and
reflected wave components. Compared to array methods, this method also strongly
reduces the influence of noise.
\begin{itemize} \textcite{kubota1990} studied the influence of the considered wave theory on
\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave incident and reflected wave separation. Three methods, based on linear
combined with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and long-wave theory, small-amplitude wave theory and quasi-nonlinear long-wave
runup for reflectivities over 0.3. theory respectiveley were developped and compared. The results show that the
quasi-nonlinear approach gave the most accurate results.
\item ?? \cite{guza1984}: %\textcite{walton1992} applied a separation method based on co-located pressure
%and velocity measurements on field, studying two natural beaches. This study
%showed that reflection is not significant on natural beaches. Additionnaly, the
%method that is used allowed for larger reflected energy than incident energy.
\item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field Research by \textcite{hughes1993} showed how co-located horizontal velocity and
measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and vertical velocity (or pressure) sensors can be used to extract incident and
outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise. reflected wave spectra. Their method is based on frequency domain linear
theory, and provided accurate results for full reflection of irregular
non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results
from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both
methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are
unreliable for higher frequency, where coherency between the two measured
series is lower.
\item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories: Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming},
quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results. \textcite{huntley1999use} showed how principal component analysis can alleviate
noise-induced bias in reflection coefficient calculations compared to
time-domain analysis. They also stuied the influence of imperfect collocation
of the sensors, showing that the time delay between sensors leads to a peak in
the reflection coefficient at a frequency related to this time delta.
\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher %%% TODO? %%%
reflected energy than incident energy. %\begin{itemize}
% \item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
%\end{itemize}
\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or \subsection{Conclusion}
horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection Numerous methods have been developped in order to separate incident and
of irregular non breaking waves. reflected components from wave measurements. Array methods rely on the use of
multiple, generally aligned, wave gauges, while PUV methods rely on the use of
co-located sensors, generally a wave height sensor and a horizontal velocity
sensor. Array methods generally have the advantage of being more cost-effective
to implement, as the cost of reliable velocity measurement devices can be
important \parencite{hughes1993}. Nevertheless, PUV methods are generally more
accurate regarding noise, varying bathymetry, and can be setup closer to
reflective surfaces \parencite{hughes1993,inch2016accurate}.
\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid In the case of the 2017 event on the Artha breakwater, the results from a
noise-induced bias. single wave gauge are available, which means that the array methods are not
applicable. A PUV method \parencite{tatavarti1989incoming,huntley1999use}
\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}: should then be used to evaluate the reflection coefficient of the Artha
\end{itemize} breakwater and to separate the incident and reflected wave components from the
measured data.
\section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater} \section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater}
\subsection{SPH models} \subsection{SPH models}

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biblio/library.bib
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@ -722,3 +722,11 @@
publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers} publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
} }
@incollection{isobe1985method,
title={Method for estimating directional wave spectrum in incident and reflected wave field},
author={Isobe, Masahiko and Kondo, Kosuke},
booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1984},
pages={467--483},
year={1985}
}

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biblio/notes/bibliography_research.tex
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@ -54,5 +54,6 @@ barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
\section{Other} \section{Other}
\cite{miche1951} \cite{miche1951}
\cite{isobe1985method}
\section{Flow in porous media} \section{Flow in porous media}
\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304} \paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}