Biblio: separating incident and reflected
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\chapter{Literature Review}
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In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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Three sections will be detailled: the separation of incident and reflected
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components from wave measurements, the modelisation of wave impacts on a
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rubble-mound breakwater, and the modelisation of block displacement by wave
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impacts.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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\subsection{Introduction}
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The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
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modeling a sea state. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
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@ -13,7 +17,7 @@ sea states,
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and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
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and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
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reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
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reflected waves, while PUV methods use co-located pressure and velocity
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measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
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\subsection{Array methods}
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@ -87,39 +91,75 @@ seabeds, as shoaling is not part of the underlying model.
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\subsubsection{Conclusion}
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Array methods have been developped enough to provide accurate results in a wide
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range of situations. However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
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range of situations. Sensibility to noise has been reduced, and the influence
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of shoaling has been considered. Those methods can also be applied to irregular
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non-linear waves.
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However, they require at least two wave gauges to be used.
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That means that in some situations such as the Saint-Jean-de-Luz event of 2017,
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other methods are needed since only one field measurement location is
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available.
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\subsection{PUV methods}
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The goal of PUV methods is to decompose the wave field into incident and
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reflected waves using co-located wave elevation and flow velocity measurements
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\parencite{tatavarti1989incoming}. \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming} presented a
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detailled analysis of separation of incoming and outging waves using co-located
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velocity and wave height sensors. Their method allows to obtain the reflection
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coefficient relative to frequency, as well as to separate incident and
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reflected wave components. Compared to array methods, this method also strongly
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reduces the influence of noise.
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\begin{itemize}
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\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave
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combined with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and
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runup for reflectivities over 0.3.
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\textcite{kubota1990} studied the influence of the considered wave theory on
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incident and reflected wave separation. Three methods, based on linear
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long-wave theory, small-amplitude wave theory and quasi-nonlinear long-wave
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theory respectiveley were developped and compared. The results show that the
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quasi-nonlinear approach gave the most accurate results.
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\item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
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%\textcite{walton1992} applied a separation method based on co-located pressure
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%and velocity measurements on field, studying two natural beaches. This study
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%showed that reflection is not significant on natural beaches. Additionnaly, the
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%method that is used allowed for larger reflected energy than incident energy.
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\item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field
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measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and
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outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise.
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Research by \textcite{hughes1993} showed how co-located horizontal velocity and
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vertical velocity (or pressure) sensors can be used to extract incident and
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reflected wave spectra. Their method is based on frequency domain linear
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theory, and provided accurate results for full reflection of irregular
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non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results
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from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both
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methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are
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unreliable for higher frequency, where coherency between the two measured
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series is lower.
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\item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories:
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quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
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Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming},
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\textcite{huntley1999use} showed how principal component analysis can alleviate
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noise-induced bias in reflection coefficient calculations compared to
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time-domain analysis. They also stuied the influence of imperfect collocation
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of the sensors, showing that the time delay between sensors leads to a peak in
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the reflection coefficient at a frequency related to this time delta.
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\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
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reflected energy than incident energy.
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%%% TODO? %%%
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%\begin{itemize}
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% \item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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%\end{itemize}
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\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
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horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection
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of irregular non breaking waves.
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\subsection{Conclusion}
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Numerous methods have been developped in order to separate incident and
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reflected components from wave measurements. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple, generally aligned, wave gauges, while PUV methods rely on the use of
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co-located sensors, generally a wave height sensor and a horizontal velocity
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sensor. Array methods generally have the advantage of being more cost-effective
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to implement, as the cost of reliable velocity measurement devices can be
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important \parencite{hughes1993}. Nevertheless, PUV methods are generally more
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accurate regarding noise, varying bathymetry, and can be setup closer to
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reflective surfaces \parencite{hughes1993,inch2016accurate}.
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\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
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noise-induced bias.
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\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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\end{itemize}
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In the case of the 2017 event on the Artha breakwater, the results from a
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single wave gauge are available, which means that the array methods are not
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applicable. A PUV method \parencite{tatavarti1989incoming,huntley1999use}
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should then be used to evaluate the reflection coefficient of the Artha
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breakwater and to separate the incident and reflected wave components from the
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measured data.
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\section{Modeling wave impact on a breakwater}
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\subsection{SPH models}
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@ -722,3 +722,11 @@
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publisher={American Society of Civil Engineers}
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}
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@incollection{isobe1985method,
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title={Method for estimating directional wave spectrum in incident and reflected wave field},
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author={Isobe, Masahiko and Kondo, Kosuke},
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booktitle={Coastal Engineering 1984},
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pages={467--483},
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year={1985}
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}
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@ -54,5 +54,6 @@ barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
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\section{Other}
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\cite{miche1951}
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\cite{isobe1985method}
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\section{Flow in porous media}
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\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
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