Literature review; change to file layout
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58
biblio/bibliography_research.tex
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biblio/bibliography_research.tex
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\chapter{Bibliography research}
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\section{Extracting components from buoy data}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
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\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
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spectrum measurements at three different points.
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\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation,
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roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method}
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Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}:
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\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant}
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Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming}
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\cite{pedersen2007resolving}
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\paragraph{puv method}
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\cite{sobey1999locally}
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\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection}
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\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ}
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\section{Reflection}
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\paragraph{wave reflection analysis}
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\cite{davidson1996new}
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\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media}
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\paragraph{olaFlow}
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\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three}
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\section{Breakwater modeling}
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\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical};
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\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d,
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sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical,
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losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
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\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
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\section{Modeling}
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\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
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mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
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\section{Block displacement}
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\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
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weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high}
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\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment,
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nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role,
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oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance}
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\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical}
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Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward},
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\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads}
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\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical,
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barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
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\section{Other}
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\cite{miche1951}
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\section{Flow in porous media}
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\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
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21
biblio/introduction.tex
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biblio/introduction.tex
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\chapter{Introduction}
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In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
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the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
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photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
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conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
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numerical modeling.
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The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
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the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
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of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
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\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
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This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
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obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
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thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
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However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
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it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
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buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
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especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
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simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
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waves for validation.
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@ -624,3 +624,73 @@
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issue = {1},
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doi = {10.51400/2709-6998.2138},
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}
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@inbook{gaillard1980,
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author = {Pierre Gaillard and Michel Gauthier and Forrest Holly },
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title = {Method of Analysis of Random Wave Experiments with Reflecting Coastal Structures},
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year = {1980},
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booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1980},
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pages = {204-220},
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doi = {10.1061/9780872622647.011},
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URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
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eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872622647.011},
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}
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@inbook{guza1984,
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author = {R. T. Guza and E. B. Thornton and R. A. Holman },
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title = {Swash on Steep and Shallow Beaches},
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booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1984},
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chapter = {},
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year = {1984},
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pages = {708-723},
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doi = {10.1061/9780872624382.049},
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URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872624382.049},
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eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872624382.049},
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}
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@inbook{kubota1990,
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author = {Susumu Kubota and Masaru Mizuguchi and Mitsuo Takezawa },
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title = {Reflection from Swash Zone on Natural Beaches},
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booktitle = {Coastal Engineering 1990},
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year = {1990},
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chapter = {},
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pages = {570-583},
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doi = {10.1061/9780872627765.046},
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URL = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/abs/10.1061/9780872627765.046},
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eprint = {https://ascelibrary.org/doi/pdf/10.1061/9780872627765.046},
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}
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@article{walton1992,
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title = {Wave reflection from natural beaches},
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journal = {Ocean Engineering},
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volume = {19},
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number = {3},
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pages = {239-258},
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year = {1992},
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issn = {0029-8018},
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doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0029-8018(92)90027-2},
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url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0029801892900272},
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author = {T.L. Walton},
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}
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@article{hughes1993,
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title = {Laboratory wave reflection analysis using co-located gages},
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journal = {Coastal Engineering},
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volume = {20},
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number = {3},
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pages = {223-247},
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year = {1993},
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issn = {0378-3839},
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doi = {https://doi.org/10.1016/0378-3839(93)90003-Q},
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url = {https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/037838399390003Q},
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author = {Steven A. Hughes},
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}
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@report{miche1951,
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title = {Le pouvoir réfléchissant des ouvrages maritimes exposés à l'action
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de la houle},
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author = {Miche, M.},
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year = {1951},
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publisher = {École nationale des ponts et chaussées},
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booktitle = {Hydraulic Engineering Reports},
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}
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72
biblio/literature.tex
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biblio/literature.tex
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\chapter{Literature Review}
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In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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The separation of incident and reflected waves is a crucial step in numerically
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modeling a seastate. Using the raw data from a buoy as the input of a wave
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model will lead to incorrect results in the domain as the flow velocity at the
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boundary will not be correctly generated.
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Several methods exist to extract reflected components in measured seastates,
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and they can generally be categorised in two types of methods: array methods
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and PUV methods \parencite{inch2016accurate}. Array methods rely on the use of
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multiple measurement points of water level to extracted the incident and
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reflected waves, while PUV methods use colocated pressure and velocity
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measurements to separate incident and reflected components of the signal.
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\subsection{Array methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item \cite{mansard1980measurement}: Presentation of least-square method to separate
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incident and reflected spectra. Requires simultaneous measurement at 3
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positions, on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation.
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\parencite{gaillard1980}
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\item \cite{frigaard1995time}: Separate 2D wave field into waves propagating towards
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and away from a structure, using 2 gauges. Method quite efficient, even with
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small filters. SIRW Method, realtime.
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\item \cite{baldock1999separation}: Starting from \textcite{frigaard1995time},
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arbitrary 2D bathymetry using linear shoaling. Small error for large reflection
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coefficients, larger for low reflection.
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\item \cite{suh2001separation}: Technique to separate incident and reflected waves on
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a known current.
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\item \cite{inch2016accurate}: creation of a lookup table to correct noise-induced
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bias in array methods.
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\item \cite{andersen2017estimation}: estimation of incident and reflected components
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for non-linear waves.
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\item \cite{roge2019estimation}: extension to irregular waves.
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\end{itemize}
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\subsection{PUV methods}
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\begin{itemize}
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\item ?? \cite{guza1977resonant}: model of the surf zone as a standing wave combined
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with a progressive wave. Accurate results of surface elevation and runup for
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reflectivities over 0.3.
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\item ?? \cite{guza1984}:
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\item \cite{tatavarti1989incoming}: Decompose colocated random field
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measurements of wave elevation and currenct velocity into incoming and
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outgoing components. Less sensitive to noise.
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\item \cite{kubota1990}: comparison between different wave theories:
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quasi-nonlinear long-wave theory gave the best results.
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\item \cite{walton1992}: application to beaches, possibility to have higher
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reflected energy than incident energy.
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\item \cite{hughes1993}: colocated horizontal and vertical velocities or
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horizontal velocity and surface elevation. Validation for full reflection of
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irregular non breaking waves.
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\item \cite{huntley1999use}: principal component analysis technique to avoid
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noise-induced bias.
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\item \cite{sheremet2002observations}:
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\end{itemize}
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@ -1,4 +1,4 @@
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\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{report}
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\documentclass[english, a4paper, 11pt]{book}
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\usepackage{cours}
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\setmainlanguage{english}
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@ -27,91 +27,17 @@ at the Artha breakwater on February 28, 2017}
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\date{February 2022}
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\begin{document}
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\frontmatter
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\maketitle
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\chapter*{Bibliography research}
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\section{Extracting components from buoy data}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation}
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\cite{mansard1980measurement}: extract incident and reflected spectra from
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spectrum measurements at three different points.
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\cite{suh2001separation,frigaard1995time,baldock1999separation,
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roge2019estimation,andersen2017estimation}
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\tableofcontents
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation single gauge}
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\paragraph{incident and reflected wave separation puv method}
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Probablement très intéressant: \cite{inch2016accurate}:
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\cite{sheremet2002observations,guza1977resonant}
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Très bien: \cite{huntley1999use,tatavarti1989incoming}
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\cite{pedersen2007resolving}
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\paragraph{puv method}
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\cite{sobey1999locally}
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\paragraph{artha breakwater reflection}
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\cite{poncet2020wave,larroque2018situ}
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\section{Reflection}
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\paragraph{wave reflection analysis}
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\cite{davidson1996new}
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\section{Modeling wave impact on porous media}
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\paragraph{olaFlow}
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\cite{olaFlow,higuera2015application}: \cite{bogdanov2011direct,del2011three}
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\section{Breakwater modeling}
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\paragraph{modelling breakwater} sph: \cite{altomare2014numerical};
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\paragraph{rubble-mound breakwater model} \cite{vanneste20152d,
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sumer2000experimental,kim2005neural,troch1999development,koley2020numerical,
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losada1979joint,lara2008wave,losada2008numerical}
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\paragraph{breakwater model} \cite{hsu2002}
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\section{Modeling}
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\paragraph{using wave buoy data in numerical models} \cite{thomas2015,
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mentaschi2013,rusu2011}
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\section{Block displacement}
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\paragraph{boulder transport by waves} \cite{erdmann2018boulder,may2015block,
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weiss2012mystery,weiss2015untangling,zainali2015boulder,zainali2016high}
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\paragraph{boulder transport flow} \cite{nandasena2011reassessment,
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nandasena2013boulder,martinez2011quasi,kennedy2016observations,lodhi2020role,
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oetjen2021experiments,oetjen2020significance}
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\paragraph{storm waves boulder interaction} \cite{nandasena2011numerical}
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Très intéressant: \cite{weiss2017toward},
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\cite{sheremet2002observations,sheremet2016triads}
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\paragraph{block transport by waves} \cite{imamura2008numerical,
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barbano2010large,PARIS20111,biolchi2016}
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\section{Flow in porous media}
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\paragraph{wave flow porous media} \cite{SHAO2010304}
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\chapter{Introduction}
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In February 2017, a \SI{50}{\tonne} concrete block was displaced by a wave onto
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the Artha breakwater in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. This event was captured by a
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photographer, and earlier work from \textcite{amir} allowed to extract the
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conditions under which this event happened using field data along with
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numerical modeling.
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The goal of the present study is to establish a numerical model representing
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the conditions under which this block displacement event happened at the scale
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of the breakwater. The simulation will be performed using the olaFlow
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\parencite{olaFlow} model in a three-dimensionnal setting.
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This study presents several aspects that are crucial to consider in order to
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obtain accurate results. The seastate that lead to the studied event is known
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thanks to a wave buoy located in front of the breakwater \parencite{amir}.
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However, in order to input an accurate incident wave into the numerical model,
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it will be necessary to extract the incident and reflected waves from the raw
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buoy data. Then, it will be necessary to accurately model the Artha breakwater,
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especially regarding its porous character. Finally, the results of this
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simulation will need to be compared to the literature on block displacement by
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waves for validation.
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\chapter{Literature Review}
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In this chapter, literature relevant to the present study will be reviewed.
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\section{Separating incident and reflected components from wave buoy data}
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\mainmatter
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\include{bibliography_research}
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\include{introduction}
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\include{literature}
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\backmatter
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\nocite{*}
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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