Wave transformation
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@ -111,6 +111,23 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
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\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
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\end{figure*}
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\subsection{Wave propagation}
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The results from the large scale SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as a boundary conditions will be used in order
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to feed the small scale Olaflow model. Wave transformation is studied from the buoy to the breakwater. Those results
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show that the amplitude of the identified wave gets lower as the wave propagates over the domain. Nevertheless, a long
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trough precedes the crest, with a zone reaching 400m long where the water level is below 1m is present in front of the
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wave crest.
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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\includegraphics{fig/x.pdf}
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\caption{Wave propagation from the buoy to the breakwater. \textit{The qualitative position of the wave is
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highlighted.}}\label{fig:trans}
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\end{figure*}
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\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
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\section{Discussion}
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\section{Methods}
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