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Wave transformation

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Edgar P. Burkhart 2022-06-22 15:57:58 +02:00
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@ -111,6 +111,23 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
\end{figure*}
\subsection{Wave propagation}
The results from the large scale SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as a boundary conditions will be used in order
to feed the small scale Olaflow model. Wave transformation is studied from the buoy to the breakwater. Those results
show that the amplitude of the identified wave gets lower as the wave propagates over the domain. Nevertheless, a long
trough precedes the crest, with a zone reaching 400m long where the water level is below 1m is present in front of the
wave crest.
\begin{figure*}
\centering
\includegraphics{fig/x.pdf}
\caption{Wave propagation from the buoy to the breakwater. \textit{The qualitative position of the wave is
highlighted.}}\label{fig:trans}
\end{figure*}
\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
\section{Discussion}
\section{Methods}