Results from swash 1
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nature/fig/maxw.pdf
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nature/fig/ts.pdf
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\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article}
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\usepackage{polyglossia} \usepackage{authblk}
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\usepackage[sfdefault]{inter}
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\usepackage{graphicx}
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\setmainlanguage{english}
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@ -74,8 +75,41 @@ calibrated using photographs from the storm of February 28, 2017. Results from t
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to the analytical equations provided by \textcite{nandasena2011}.
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\section{Results}
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\subsection{Identified wave}
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Preliminary work with the photographer allowed to identify the time at which the block displacement event happened.
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Using the data from the wave buoy located 1250m offshore of the Artha breakwater, a seamingly abnormally large wave of
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14m amplitude was identified that is supposed to have lead to the block displacement.
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Initial analysis of the buoy data plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:wave} shows that the movement of the buoy follows two
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orbitals that correspond to an incident wave direction. These results would indicate that the identified wave is
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essentially an incident wave, with a minor reflected component.
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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\includegraphics{fig/ts.pdf}
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\includegraphics{fig/out_orbitals.pdf}
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\caption{\textit{Left}: Free surface measured during the extreme wave measured on February 28, 2017 at 17:23UTC.
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\textit{Right}: Trajectory of the wave buoy during the passage of this particular wave.}\label{fig:wave}
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\end{figure*}
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\subsection{Reflection analysis}
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The results from the large scale SWASH model using two configurations --- one of them being the real bathymetry, and
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the other being a simplified bathymetry without the breakwater --- are compared in Figure~\ref{fig:swash}. The results
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obtained with both simulations show a maximum wave amplitude of 13.9m for the real bathymetry, and 12.1m in the case
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where the breakwater is removed.
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The 13\% difference between those values highlights the existence of a notable amount of reflection at the buoy.
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Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wave identified on February 28, 2017 at
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17:23:08 could still be considered as an incident wave.
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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\includegraphics{fig/maxw.pdf}
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\caption{Free surface obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater;
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\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
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\end{figure*}
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\section{Discussion}
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