Wave transformation

nature/main.tex

@@ -111,6 +111,23 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
 	\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
 \end{figure*}
 
+\subsection{Wave propagation}
+
+The results from the large scale SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as a boundary conditions will be used in order
+to feed the small scale Olaflow model. Wave transformation is studied from the buoy to the breakwater. Those results
+show that the amplitude of the identified wave gets lower as the wave propagates over the domain. Nevertheless, a long
+trough precedes the crest, with a zone reaching 400m long where the water level is below 1m is present in front of the
+wave crest.
+
+\begin{figure*}
+	\centering
+	\includegraphics{fig/x.pdf}
+	\caption{Wave propagation from the buoy to the breakwater. \textit{The qualitative position of the wave is
+	highlighted.}}\label{fig:trans}
+\end{figure*}
+
+\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
+
 \section{Discussion}
 
 \section{Methods}