Wavelet
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nature/fig/wavelet9312.pdf
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nature/fig/wavelet9312.pdf
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nature/fig/wavelet_sw.pdf
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nature/fig/wavelet_sw.pdf
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@ -91,3 +91,13 @@
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school={Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour},
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chapter={4},
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}
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@article{torrence1998,
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title={A practical guide to wavelet analysis},
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author={Torrence, Christopher and Compo, Gilbert P},
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journal={Bulletin of the American Meteorological society},
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volume={79},
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number={1},
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pages={61--78},
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year={1998},
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publisher={American Meteorological Society}
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}
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@ -126,6 +126,28 @@ the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where t
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qualitatively estimated position of the wave crest.}\label{fig:swash_trans}
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\end{figure*}
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\subsection{Wavelet analysis}
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In an attempt to understand the identified wave, a wavelet analysis is conducted on raw buoy data as well as at
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different points along the SWASH model using the method proposed by \textcite{torrence1998}. The results are displayed
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in Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet} and Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet_sw}. The wavelet power spectrum shows that the major component
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in the identified wave is a high energy infragravity wave, with a period of around 60s.
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The SWASH model seems to indicate that the observed transformation of the wave can be characterized by a transfer of
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energy from the infragravity band to shorter waves from around 600m to 300m, and returning to the infragravity band at
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200m.
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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\includegraphics{fig/wavelet9312.pdf}
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\caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum from the raw buoy timeseries.}\label{fig:wavelet}
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\end{figure*}
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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\includegraphics{fig/wavelet_sw.pdf}
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\caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum along the SWASH domain.}\label{fig:wavelet_sw}
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\end{figure*}
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\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
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The two-dimensionnal olaFlow model near the breakwater allowed to compute the flow velocity near and on the breakwater
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@ -145,6 +167,8 @@ exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s.
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\section{Discussion}
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\section{Methods}
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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