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@ -91,3 +91,13 @@
school={Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour}, school={Université de Pau et des Pays de l'Adour},
chapter={4}, chapter={4},
} }
@article{torrence1998,
title={A practical guide to wavelet analysis},
author={Torrence, Christopher and Compo, Gilbert P},
journal={Bulletin of the American Meteorological society},
volume={79},
number={1},
pages={61--78},
year={1998},
publisher={American Meteorological Society}
}

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@ -126,6 +126,28 @@ the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where t
qualitatively estimated position of the wave crest.}\label{fig:swash_trans} qualitatively estimated position of the wave crest.}\label{fig:swash_trans}
\end{figure*} \end{figure*}
\subsection{Wavelet analysis}
In an attempt to understand the identified wave, a wavelet analysis is conducted on raw buoy data as well as at
different points along the SWASH model using the method proposed by \textcite{torrence1998}. The results are displayed
in Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet} and Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet_sw}. The wavelet power spectrum shows that the major component
in the identified wave is a high energy infragravity wave, with a period of around 60s.
The SWASH model seems to indicate that the observed transformation of the wave can be characterized by a transfer of
energy from the infragravity band to shorter waves from around 600m to 300m, and returning to the infragravity band at
200m.
\begin{figure*}
\centering
\includegraphics{fig/wavelet9312.pdf}
\caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum from the raw buoy timeseries.}\label{fig:wavelet}
\end{figure*}
\begin{figure*}
\centering
\includegraphics{fig/wavelet_sw.pdf}
\caption{Normalized wavelet power spectrum along the SWASH domain.}\label{fig:wavelet_sw}
\end{figure*}
\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater} \subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
The two-dimensionnal olaFlow model near the breakwater allowed to compute the flow velocity near and on the breakwater The two-dimensionnal olaFlow model near the breakwater allowed to compute the flow velocity near and on the breakwater
@ -145,6 +167,8 @@ exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s.
\section{Discussion} \section{Discussion}
\section{Methods} \section{Methods}
\printbibliography \printbibliography
\end{document} \end{document}