Biblio: final
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@ -34,13 +34,13 @@ located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to
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extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the
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earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation}
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analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and
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suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
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suggest that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
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that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are
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multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition}
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applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated.
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\textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral
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analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea
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state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the
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state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relationship between the
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maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided.
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According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on
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the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
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@ -86,10 +86,10 @@ and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
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squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small
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amount of error appears when noise is added.
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\textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise led to
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overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is
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proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient
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estimations.
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\textcite{inch2016accurate} confirmed that the presence of noise led to
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overestimation of the reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup
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tables is proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection
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coefficient estimations.
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\textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed
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improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves
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@ -138,7 +138,7 @@ theory, and provided accurate results for full reflection of irregular
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non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results
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from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both
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methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are
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unreliable for higher frequency, where coherency between the two measured
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unreliable for higher frequencies, where coherency between the two measured
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series is lower.
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Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming},
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@ -233,7 +233,7 @@ does increase the accuracy of the model. Similar results are found by
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\textcite{wen2016sph} when studying wave impact on non-porous structures using
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the same model.
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The same model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by
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That model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by
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\textcite{wen20183d}. The computed free surface and forces on a structure were
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shown to be accurately predicted by the 3D model.
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@ -277,7 +277,7 @@ used for three-dimensional models.
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\textcite{altomare2017long} presented a wave generation method for long-crested
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(second order) waves in a WCSPH model using a piston wave maker. Although this
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method leads to high reflection, but the possibility of generating irregular
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method leads to high reflection, the possibility of generating irregular
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waves was highlighted.
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Similarly to \textcite{liu2015isph}, \textcite{wen2018non} proposed a wave
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@ -318,7 +318,8 @@ applicability to such models in studying real cases using in-situ data.
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Contrary to SPH models, the volume of fluid (VOF) method relies on a Eulerian
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representation of the fluid \parencite{hirt1981volume}. This method uses a
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marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a cell.
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marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a mesh
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cell.
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\subsubsection{2D models}
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@ -545,6 +546,13 @@ depending on wave orientation.
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\subsection{Conclusion}
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Block displacement by waves has been widely studied in the literature.
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Nevertheless, most validation has been conducted using laboratory experiments,
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and reliable real-world data on that subject is scarce. This highlights the
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opportunity provided by the 2017 Saint-Jean-de-Luz event, as the availability
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of in-situ data allows for real-world validation of the results from earlier
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research.
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%\subsection{In-situ studies}
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%
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%\cite{barbano2010large}: boulders deposity in Sicily -> probably tsunamis
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