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Biblio: final

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@ -34,13 +34,13 @@ located along the wave direction, along with spectral analysis, in order to
extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the extract the incident and reflected wave spectra. Their work is based on the
earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation} earlier work of \textcite{thornton1972spectral}. \textcite{goda1977estimation}
analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and analyzed the wave spectrum components using the Fast Fourier Transform, and
suggests that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted suggest that this method is adequate for studies in wave flumes. They noted
that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are that this method provides diverging results for gauge spacings that are
multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition} multiples of half of the wave length. \textcite{morden1977decomposition}
applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated. applies this technique to a field study, where the sea state is wind generated.
\textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral \textcite{morden1977decomposition} showed that, using appropriate spectral
analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea analysis methods along with linear wave theory, the decomposition of the sea
state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relation between the state into incident and reflected waves is accurate. A relationship between the
maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided. maximum obtainable frequency and the distance between the sensors is provided.
According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on According to \textcite{morden1977decomposition}, the only needed knowledge on
the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the the wave environment is that wave frequencies are not modified by the
@ -86,10 +86,10 @@ and reflected waves. This method relies on two or more gauges, using a least
squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small squares method. Results are very accurate in the absence of noise, but a small
amount of error appears when noise is added. amount of error appears when noise is added.
\textcite{inch2016accurate} noticed that the presence of noise led to \textcite{inch2016accurate} confirmed that the presence of noise led to
overestimation of reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup tables is overestimation of the reflection coefficient. The creation of bias lookup
proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection coefficient tables is proposed in order to account for noise-induced error in reflection
estimations. coefficient estimations.
\textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed \textcite{andersen2017estimation,roge2019estimation} later proposed
improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves improvements to account for highly non-linear regular and irregular waves
@ -138,7 +138,7 @@ theory, and provided accurate results for full reflection of irregular
non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results non-breaking waves. Low-reflection scenarii were evaluated against the results
from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both from \textcite{goda1977estimation}, and showed good agreement between both
methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are methods. \textcite{hughes1993} also highlights that reflection estimates are
unreliable for higher frequency, where coherency between the two measured unreliable for higher frequencies, where coherency between the two measured
series is lower. series is lower.
Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming}, Following the work of \textcite{tatavarti1989incoming},
@ -233,7 +233,7 @@ does increase the accuracy of the model. Similar results are found by
\textcite{wen2016sph} when studying wave impact on non-porous structures using \textcite{wen2016sph} when studying wave impact on non-porous structures using
the same model. the same model.
The same model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by That model was then extended to a three-dimensional model by
\textcite{wen20183d}. The computed free surface and forces on a structure were \textcite{wen20183d}. The computed free surface and forces on a structure were
shown to be accurately predicted by the 3D model. shown to be accurately predicted by the 3D model.
@ -277,7 +277,7 @@ used for three-dimensional models.
\textcite{altomare2017long} presented a wave generation method for long-crested \textcite{altomare2017long} presented a wave generation method for long-crested
(second order) waves in a WCSPH model using a piston wave maker. Although this (second order) waves in a WCSPH model using a piston wave maker. Although this
method leads to high reflection, but the possibility of generating irregular method leads to high reflection, the possibility of generating irregular
waves was highlighted. waves was highlighted.
Similarly to \textcite{liu2015isph}, \textcite{wen2018non} proposed a wave Similarly to \textcite{liu2015isph}, \textcite{wen2018non} proposed a wave
@ -318,7 +318,8 @@ applicability to such models in studying real cases using in-situ data.
Contrary to SPH models, the volume of fluid (VOF) method relies on a Eulerian Contrary to SPH models, the volume of fluid (VOF) method relies on a Eulerian
representation of the fluid \parencite{hirt1981volume}. This method uses a representation of the fluid \parencite{hirt1981volume}. This method uses a
marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a cell. marker function, the value of which represents the fraction of fluid in a mesh
cell.
\subsubsection{2D models} \subsubsection{2D models}
@ -545,6 +546,13 @@ depending on wave orientation.
\subsection{Conclusion} \subsection{Conclusion}
Block displacement by waves has been widely studied in the literature.
Nevertheless, most validation has been conducted using laboratory experiments,
and reliable real-world data on that subject is scarce. This highlights the
opportunity provided by the 2017 Saint-Jean-de-Luz event, as the availability
of in-situ data allows for real-world validation of the results from earlier
research.
%\subsection{In-situ studies} %\subsection{In-situ studies}
% %
%\cite{barbano2010large}: boulders deposity in Sicily -> probably tsunamis %\cite{barbano2010large}: boulders deposity in Sicily -> probably tsunamis