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[latex]
engine=xelatex
main=main.tex
out=nature.pdf

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@misc{olaFlow,
author={Higuera, P.},
title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].},
year=2017,
doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013},
url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013}
}
@report{parvin2020,
author={Amir Parvin},
title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action},
year={2020},
}
@article{cox2018,
title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits},
author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter},
journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
volume={177},
pages={623--636},
year={2018},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{shah2013,
title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age},
author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A},
journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie},
volume={57},
number={Suppl 4},
pages={181--199},
year={2013}
}
@article{nott1997,
title={Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef, Australia: determining the cause—tsunami or tropical cyclone},
author={Nott, Jonathan},
journal={Marine Geology},
volume={141},
number={1-4},
pages={193--207},
year={1997},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{nott2003,
title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting},
author={Nott, Jonathan},
journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters},
volume={210},
number={1-2},
pages={269--276},
year={2003},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{nandasena2011,
title={Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations: Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms, tsunamis)},
author={Nandasena, NAK and Paris, Rapha{\"e}l and Tanaka, Norio},
journal={Marine Geology},
volume={281},
number={1-4},
pages={70--84},
year={2011},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{weiss2015,
title={Untangling boulder dislodgement in storms and tsunamis: Is it possible with simple theories?},
author={Weiss, R and Diplas, P},
journal={Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems},
volume={16},
number={3},
pages={890--898},
year={2015},
publisher={Wiley Online Library}
}
@article{zijlema2011,
title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters},
author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter},
journal={Coastal Engineering},
volume={58},
number={10},
pages={992--1012},
year={2011},
publisher={Elsevier}
}
@article{higuera2015,
title={Application of computational fluid dynamics to wave action on structures},
author={Higuera, P},
journal={PhD. Universidade de Cantabria},
year={2015}
}

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\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article}
\usepackage{polyglossia}
\usepackage{authblk}
\setmainlanguage{english}
\usepackage[
backend=biber,
style=iso-authoryear,
sorting=nyt,
]{biblatex}
\bibliography{library}
\title{Analysis of the displacement of a large concrete block under an extreme wave}
\author[1]{Edgar P. Burkhart}
\author[*,1]{Stéphane Abadie}
\affil[1]{Université de Pau et des Pays de lAdour, E2S-UPPA, SIAME, France}
\affil[*]{Corresponding Author, stephane.abadie@univ-pau.fr}
\begin{document}
\maketitle
\section{Introduction}
% Displacement of blocks studies
Displacement of large blocks or boulders by waves is an interesting phenomenon in the study of extreme historical
coastal events. The existence of block deposits at unusual heights can be a clue to past events such as extreme storms
or tsunamis. For instance, \textcite{cox2018} studied coastal deposits on the coast of Ireland in relation to the
storms from winter 2013--2014, and extracted criteria for analysing such deposits. Similarly, \textcite{shah2013}
found boulder deposits on the mediterranean coast to be evidence of extreme storms in the Little Ice Age.
% Need for analytical equations
In order for those studies to be possible, analytical criterias are needed in order to ascertain the cause of the
displacement of a block. \textcite{nott1997,nott2003} proposed a set of equations that have been widely used for that
purpose. Those equations rely on an equilibrium relation between the lift force produced by a wave and restraining
forces depending on the initial setting of the block, allowing to extract a minimal flow velocity necessary for
movement initiation. A parametrisation of waves depending on their source is also used to provide minimal wave heights
depending on the type of scenario --- wave or tsunami. Those equations were later revised by \textcite{nandasena2011},
as they were found to be partially incorrect. A revised formulation based on the same considerations was provided.
The assumptions on which \citeauthor{nott2003, nandasena2011} are based were then critisized by \textcite{weiss2015}.
In fact, according to them, the initiation of movement is not sufficient to guarantee block displacement.
\textcite{weiss2015} highlights the importance of the time dependency on block displacement. A method is proposed that
allows to find the wave amplitude that lead to block displacement.
% Lack of observations -> observation
Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss2015}, all the proposed analytical
equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis.
Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past.
In this paper, we study such an event. In february 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the
Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured
the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block
displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to
the displacement of the 50T concrete block.
% Modeling flow accounting for porous media
Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater.
\section{Results}
\section{Discussion}
\section{Methods}
\printbibliography
\end{document}