Nature: start introduction
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nature/kalliope.conf
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nature/kalliope.conf
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[latex]
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engine=xelatex
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main=main.tex
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out=nature.pdf
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nature/library.bib
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nature/library.bib
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@misc{olaFlow,
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author={Higuera, P.},
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title={olaFlow: {CFD} for waves [{S}oftware].},
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year=2017,
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doi={10.5281/zenodo.1297013},
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url={https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.1297013}
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}
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@report{parvin2020,
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author={Amir Parvin},
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title={Processes allowing large block displacement under wave action},
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year={2020},
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}
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@article{cox2018,
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title={Extraordinary boulder transport by storm waves (west of Ireland, winter 2013--2014), and criteria for analysing coastal boulder deposits},
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author={Cox, R{\'o}nadh and Jahn, Kalle L and Watkins, Oona G and Cox, Peter},
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journal={Earth-Science Reviews},
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volume={177},
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pages={623--636},
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year={2018},
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publisher={Elsevier}
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}
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@article{shah2013,
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title={Coastal boulders in Martigues, French Mediterranean: evidence for extreme storm waves during the Little Ice Age},
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author={Shah-Hosseini, M and Morhange, C and De Marco, A and Wante, J and Anthony, EJ and Sabatier, F and Mastronuzzi, G and Pignatelli, C and Piscitelli, A},
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journal={Zeitschrift f{\"u}r Geomorphologie},
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volume={57},
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number={Suppl 4},
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pages={181--199},
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year={2013}
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}
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@article{nott1997,
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title={Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef, Australia: determining the cause—tsunami or tropical cyclone},
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author={Nott, Jonathan},
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journal={Marine Geology},
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volume={141},
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number={1-4},
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pages={193--207},
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year={1997},
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publisher={Elsevier}
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}
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@article{nott2003,
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title={Waves, coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting},
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author={Nott, Jonathan},
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journal={Earth and Planetary Science Letters},
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volume={210},
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number={1-2},
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pages={269--276},
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year={2003},
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publisher={Elsevier}
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}
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@article{nandasena2011,
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title={Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations: Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms, tsunamis)},
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author={Nandasena, NAK and Paris, Rapha{\"e}l and Tanaka, Norio},
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journal={Marine Geology},
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volume={281},
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number={1-4},
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pages={70--84},
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year={2011},
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publisher={Elsevier}
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}
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@article{weiss2015,
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title={Untangling boulder dislodgement in storms and tsunamis: Is it possible with simple theories?},
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author={Weiss, R and Diplas, P},
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journal={Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems},
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volume={16},
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number={3},
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pages={890--898},
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year={2015},
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publisher={Wiley Online Library}
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}
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@article{zijlema2011,
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title={SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters},
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author={Zijlema, Marcel and Stelling, Guus and Smit, Pieter},
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journal={Coastal Engineering},
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volume={58},
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number={10},
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pages={992--1012},
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year={2011},
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publisher={Elsevier}
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}
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@article{higuera2015,
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title={Application of computational fluid dynamics to wave action on structures},
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author={Higuera, P},
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journal={PhD. Universidade de Cantabria},
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year={2015}
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}
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nature/main.tex
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nature/main.tex
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\documentclass[a4paper, twocolumn]{article}
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\usepackage{polyglossia}
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\usepackage{authblk}
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\setmainlanguage{english}
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\usepackage[
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backend=biber,
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style=iso-authoryear,
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sorting=nyt,
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]{biblatex}
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\bibliography{library}
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\title{Analysis of the displacement of a large concrete block under an extreme wave}
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\author[1]{Edgar P. Burkhart}
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\author[*,1]{Stéphane Abadie}
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\affil[1]{Université de Pau et des Pays de l’Adour, E2S-UPPA, SIAME, France}
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\affil[*]{Corresponding Author, stephane.abadie@univ-pau.fr}
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\begin{document}
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\maketitle
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\section{Introduction}
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% Displacement of blocks studies
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Displacement of large blocks or boulders by waves is an interesting phenomenon in the study of extreme historical
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coastal events. The existence of block deposits at unusual heights can be a clue to past events such as extreme storms
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or tsunamis. For instance, \textcite{cox2018} studied coastal deposits on the coast of Ireland in relation to the
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storms from winter 2013--2014, and extracted criteria for analysing such deposits. Similarly, \textcite{shah2013}
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found boulder deposits on the mediterranean coast to be evidence of extreme storms in the Little Ice Age.
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% Need for analytical equations
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In order for those studies to be possible, analytical criterias are needed in order to ascertain the cause of the
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displacement of a block. \textcite{nott1997,nott2003} proposed a set of equations that have been widely used for that
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purpose. Those equations rely on an equilibrium relation between the lift force produced by a wave and restraining
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forces depending on the initial setting of the block, allowing to extract a minimal flow velocity necessary for
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movement initiation. A parametrisation of waves depending on their source is also used to provide minimal wave heights
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depending on the type of scenario --- wave or tsunami. Those equations were later revised by \textcite{nandasena2011},
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as they were found to be partially incorrect. A revised formulation based on the same considerations was provided.
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The assumptions on which \citeauthor{nott2003, nandasena2011} are based were then critisized by \textcite{weiss2015}.
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In fact, according to them, the initiation of movement is not sufficient to guarantee block displacement.
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\textcite{weiss2015} highlights the importance of the time dependency on block displacement. A method is proposed that
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allows to find the wave amplitude that lead to block displacement.
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% Lack of observations -> observation
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Whether it is \textcite{nott2003}, \textcite{nandasena2011} or \textcite{weiss2015}, all the proposed analytical
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equations suffer from a major flaw; they are all based on simplified analytical models and statistical analysis.
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Unfortunately, no block displacement event seems to have been observed directly in the past.
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In this paper, we study such an event. In february 2017, a 50T concrete block was dropped by a wave on the crest of the
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Artha breakwater. Luckily, the event was captured by a photographer, and a wave buoy located 1.2km offshore captured
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the seastate. Information from the photographer allowed to establish the approximate time at which the block
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displacement occured. The goal of this paper is to model the hydrodynamic conditions near the breakwater that lead to
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the displacement of the 50T concrete block.
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% Modeling flow accounting for porous media
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Several approaches can be used when modelling flow near a breakwater.
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\section{Results}
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\section{Discussion}
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\section{Methods}
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\printbibliography
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\end{document}
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