nature/main.tex

@@ -115,9 +115,9 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
 
 The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
 plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
-the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over
-the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and
-the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m.
+the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the
+domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the
+crest increases.
 
 \begin{figure*}
 	\centering