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Wave transformation

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Edgar P. Burkhart 2022-06-22 15:59:32 +02:00
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nature/main.tex
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@ -107,23 +107,23 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
\begin{figure*}
\centering
\includegraphics{fig/maxw.pdf}
\caption{Free surface obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater;
\caption{Free surface elevation obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater;
\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
\end{figure*}
\subsection{Wave propagation}
\subsection{Wave transformation}
The results from the large scale SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as a boundary conditions will be used in order
to feed the small scale Olaflow model. Wave transformation is studied from the buoy to the breakwater. Those results
show that the amplitude of the identified wave gets lower as the wave propagates over the domain. Nevertheless, a long
trough precedes the crest, with a zone reaching 400m long where the water level is below 1m is present in front of the
wave crest.
The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over
the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and
the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m.
\begin{figure*}
\centering
\includegraphics{fig/x.pdf}
\caption{Wave propagation from the buoy to the breakwater. \textit{The qualitative position of the wave is
highlighted.}}\label{fig:trans}
\caption{Propagation of the wave supposed to be responsible for the block displacement; highlighted zone:
qualitatively estimated position of the wave.}\label{fig:swash_trans}
\end{figure*}
\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}