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Reflection

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Edgar P. Burkhart 2022-06-27 14:56:09 +02:00
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@ -85,7 +85,7 @@ Initial analysis of the buoy data plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:wave} shows that th
orbitals that correspond to an incident wave direction. These results would indicate that the identified wave is
essentially an incident wave, with a minor reflected component.
The wavelet power spectrum displayed in Figure~\ref{wavelet} highlights a primary infragravity wave in the signal, with
The wavelet power spectrum displayed in Figure~\ref{fig:wavelet} highlights a primary infragravity wave in the signal, with
a period of over 30s.
\begin{figure*}
@ -173,7 +173,16 @@ exhibits a water level over 5m for over 40s.
\subsection{Incident wave}
According to the criteria proposed by \textcite{dysthe2008}, rogue waves can be defined as waves with an amplitude over
twice the significant wave height over a given period.
twice the significant wave height over a given period. The identified wave fits this definition, as its amplitude is
14.7m, over twice the significant wave height of 6.3m on that day. According to \textcite{dysthe2008}, rogue waves
often occur from non-linear superposition of smaller waves. This seems to be what we observe on Figure~\ref{fig:wave}.
The wavelet power spectrum shows that a very prominent infragravity component is present, which usually corresponds to
non-linear interactions of smaller waves. \textcite{dysthe2008} mentions that such waves in coastal waters are often
the result of refractive focusing. On February 28, 2017, the frequency of rogue waves was found to be of 1 wave per
1627, which is considerably more than the excedance probability of 1 over 10\textsuperscript4 calculated by
\textcite{dysthe2008}. Additionnal studies should be conducted to understand focusing and the formation of rogue waves
in front of the Saint-Jean-de-Luz bay.
\subsection{Reflection analysis}
@ -181,7 +190,12 @@ The 13\% difference between those values highlights the existence of a notable a
Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wave identified on February 28, 2017 at
17:23:08 could still be considered as an incident wave.
\subsection{}
Unfortunately, the spectrum wave generation method used by SWASH could not reproduce simlar waves to the one observed
at the buoy. As mentionned by \textcite{dysthe2008}, such rogue waves cannot be deterministicly from the wave spectrum.
For this reason, this study only allows us to observe the influence of reflection on short waves, while mostly ignoring
infragravity waves.
\subsection{Wave transformation}
\section{Methods}
\printbibliography