Add swash propa

nature/main.tex

@@ -107,10 +107,27 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
 \begin{figure*}
 	\centering
 	\includegraphics{fig/maxw.pdf}
-	\caption{Free surface obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater;
+	\caption{Free surface elevation obtained with the SWASH model in two configurations. \textit{Case 1}: With breakwater;
 	\textit{Case 2}: Without breakwater.}\label{fig:swash}
 \end{figure*}
 
+\subsection{Wave transformation}
+
+The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
+plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
+the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the
+domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the
+crest increases.
+
+\begin{figure*}
+	\centering
+	\includegraphics{fig/x.pdf}
+	\caption{Propagation of the wave supposed to be responsible for the block displacement; highlighted zone:
+	qualitatively estimated position of the wave.}\label{fig:swash_trans}
+\end{figure*}
+
+\subsection{Hydrodynamic conditions on the breakwater}
+
 \section{Discussion}
 
 \section{Methods}