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@ -115,9 +115,9 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
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The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
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plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
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the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the
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domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the
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crest increases.
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the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over
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the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and
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the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m.
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\begin{figure*}
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\centering
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