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Author SHA1 Message Date
1039ee6379
Wave transformation 2022-06-22 15:59:32 +02:00
6a9fff542b
Wave transformation 2022-06-22 15:57:58 +02:00

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@ -115,9 +115,9 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the
domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the
crest increases.
the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over
the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and
the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m.
\begin{figure*}
\centering