Wave transformation

2022-06-22 15:59:32 +02:00 · 2022-06-22 15:57:58 +02:00
1 changed files with 3 additions and 3 deletions
--- a/nature/main.tex
+++ b/nature/main.tex
@ -115,9 +115,9 @@ Nonetheless, the gap between the values is still fairly small and the extreme wa
 The free surface obtained with the SWASH model using raw buoy measurements as an elevation boundary condition is
 plotted in Figure~\ref{fig:swash_trans}. Those results display a strong transformation of the wave between the buoy and
-the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over the
+the breakwater. Not only the amplitude, but also the shape of the wave are strongly impacted by the propagation over
-domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and the
+the domain. While the amplitude of the wave is reduced as the wave propagates shorewards, the length of the trough and
-crest increases.
+the crest increases, with a zone reaching 400m long in front of the wave where the water level is below 0m.
 \begin{figure*}
 	\centering
Author	SHA1	Message	Date
Edgar P. Burkhart	1039ee6379	Wave transformation	2022-06-22 15:59:32 +02:00
Edgar P. Burkhart	6a9fff542b	Wave transformation	2022-06-22 15:57:58 +02:00